Hand sewn vs. machine sewn

[Manu]

Alright, I have noticed the price difference between hand sewn and machine sewn kilts, the hand sewn being more expensive. I undertsand that doing by hand takes more time and hence the increase in the price, but when it comes down to business, is there really much difference between the two? Can you see any diffrence with tha naked eye? Do they last longer?

[Pleater]

There might be quite a difference in the quality of the finished kilt, or very little - it all depends on the care taken with either method.

I have been using a sewing machine for 50 years (yikes ) and consider myself as good as I am going to get. I happily switch from hand sewing in front of the TV to machine sewing - though I do find that there are some bits which I do in the wrong order and so leave myself with only hand sewing as an option as machine sewing would be messy or even impossible.

By adjusting the settings of the machine to match the hand sewing there is very little difference. At a distance of a yard it would be hard to say what was sewn by which method.

If the sewer is rushing to get the kilt made in a particular time frame, or is using a sewing method which does not allow for undoing and making good a mistake, then the finished item - even if hand sewn might not be all that satisfactory.

A machine sewn kilt made by a perfectionist concentrating on getting the method of construction just right should be a thing of beauty.

Personally I think that the use of a combination of hand and machine sewing would be my chosen method of construction. Machine sewing all the easy bits would be fast, and leave time for hand sewing all the fiddly seams to best effect.

I would chose machine sewing for pleat edges which are to be on show, as the two threads - when perfectly adjusted - make a smoother sharper edge, in my opinion. I only do this on all cotton fabrics now, everything else is just pressed.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Some hand sewn kilts actually do have a bit of machine stitching in them -- only for the invisible stitching, things like where the lining may be attached to the waistband, or where the two lengths of tartan are joined together, which would be hidden in a pleat.

But the important thing is that all visible stitching be done by hand. I don't care how good you get at a machine, you simply cannot make the stitching as invisible as a skilled hand sewer. And that is the goal, to make all the stitching invisible.

I also find it is much easier to match up the pattern of the tartan in the pleats by hand.

Can you tell a difference between hand and machine sewn kilts? I can, at a glance -- because I know what I am looking for. Most uninitiated people wouldn't think to even look for a difference.

A machine sewn kilt, made from quality tartan kilting cloth, can look good, if it is made by someone who knows what they are doing. But it's simply never going to have the same quality look as a hand sewn.

M

[RockyR]

I tend to disagree with Matt on this one. I've seen MANY hand sewn kilts from different makers in Scotland (Lochcarron, Strathmore, HOE, etc). Some of them are things of beauty. Some of them came out "less than spectacular".

Personally, I prefer the half and half method. When I sew the pleats, I can set the stitch length much shorter and have ABSOLUTELY NO stitches visible from the outside when I sew the pleats inside out. Yes, I have to pin the pleats to keep them from sliding while sewing them and having the "step up" effect, but the end result is a continuous horizontal line with no stitches showing.

The "canvas reinforments" must be hand sewn and the cotton lining is as well. Also, the hole for the strap to come through the pleats on the left hip is hand sewn. These are NECESSARY so that no stitching shows through the outside.

[Paul Henry]

Never having made a kilt, but for the last 20 plus years have made countless clothes and costumes professionally.
Carefully adjusted tension on machines will give a very even look,something that is not so easy by hand.Of course if the stitching has to be invisible hand work is better.
It just the sense that a hand sewn one is better than a machine sewn one, simply not true- to echo Rocky's post.

[Raphael]

A machine sewn kilt, made from quality tartan kilting cloth, can look good, if it is made by someone who knows what they are doing. But it's simply never going to have the same quality look as a hand sewn.

M

Matt, Is it also true that the stitches on the hand sewn kilts are (usually) tighter than the ones made by machines? Therefore hand sewn kilts are more durable?

[macgreggor]

I keep seeing the scene from 'Fiddler on the Roof' when the new sewing machine arrives.

The tailor keeps saying sonething about 'no more uneven stiches, no more skipped stiches, no more.....'

macG

[arrogcow]

Despite what has been said by others, the stitching on my 5 yard machine stitched from Scottishkilts.net is invisible. On the other hand, my tank from Thoman Gordon and sons, has clearly visible stitching on every pleat (by visible, I mean if you are with in a foot or so).

Adam

[Barb T]

Well, stitching on a hand-sewn kilt _shouldn't_ be visible, the stripes should match perfectly, and color boundaries shouldn't wobble around in a pleat. But, not every kiltmaker is meticulous. That's why it pays to know who's making your kilt if these things matter to you.

Machine-stitching kilt pleats from the outside (which is how most machine-stitched kilts are made) is very obvious. I agree with Matt that it's easy to spot and makes a kilt not look like a trad kilt but rather like a kilt skirt.

Machine-stitching kilt pleats from the inside (as described by Rocky) is exceptionally difficult to do well and to make truly precise in terms of stripe-matching, centering of stripes or color boundaries, pleat size, and precise taper for a good fit. My hat is off to Rocky for being able to do it well.

Me, I'm a traditionalist. I do everything by hand, even the fringe edge. Well, that's a teensy lie. If I'm home when I'm working on a kilt, I _do_ stitch the top band on by machine, but that's it. And, if I'm traveling, I even do that by hand. Takes me about 20 hours to make a kilt, a bit more if it's a really big one. But, personally, I think all the hand work makes a better final product.

Barb

[RockyR]

Machine-stitching kilt pleats from the inside (as described by Rocky) is exceptionally difficult to do well and to make truly precise in terms of stripe-matching, centering of stripes or color boundaries, pleat size, and precise taper for a good fit. My hat is off to Rocky for being able to do it well.

Thanks! I'm honored! If you pin every pleat PRECISELY about 10 times (down the length of the fell) and keep the 2 layers taut and straight, it will produce a perfect pleat 5 out of 6 times. If you don't hold the material straight or taut enough or if your pinning was off by a thread or 2, the horizontal lines will have the "step up" effect and you'll have to tear out the pleat and start over.

It's a matter of personal prefference. If you prefer hand sewing and do it WELL (Like Barb) and are PATIENT, then hand sewing a kilt may be better for you. If you HATE hand sewing (like I do), you'll have to be good at machine sewing to make the stitches invisible.

To shoot a compliment back at her... My hat's off to YOU Barb. I don't hav the patience or ability to hand sew an ENTIRE Kilt. The Canvas and Cotton linings are enough!