Sewing Machines

[Alan H]

Thw two machines I use is an old, old black Singer from sometimes around the 1950's. It's strong and reliable and thre's nothing like it for drop-dead reliable straight stitch. It will also sew in reverse. But to do zig zag or buttonholes you need these arcane little foot attachments, and I've never really used the ones I have.

The machine that I use for Zig-zag is my wifes Husqvarna. It's a Viking and is one of the first computerized models, though it only has about twenty decorative stitches.

For kilts (and light sailmaking, the other thing I do...and boat canvaswork) you need:

!. rock-solid straight stitch.
2. zig-zag
3. buttonholer

and if you can get it, a serging stitch to finish off raw edges.

All else is fru-fru.

[HeathBar]

Thanks guys, that helps a lot. So to break it down, I need a machine that does staight stitches, has a reverse, and has a foot that can lift up at least 1/2". I should look for a machine that is not made of plastic. I will consider some of the other brands that were named, but any new ones are probably out of my price range. I found a local sewing & vacuum shop that's been around for38 years. I may drop by on Saturday to see what they have.

Is there anything else I need to look for? Accessories, feet?

Thanks

[BLAZN]

Listening in.

I'm curious to know what kind of machine to snag for the wife and I. We're getting into the RenFaire game, and both of us have decided to make our own garb.

Right now, we've got a Singer. Not sure what model. I know it works great when I make shirts, but it stresses when I make kilts. The arm is also too stinkin' short. I wish the arm were 6" longer. As it is, I have to roll my kilt quite a bit to stitch up my pleats. Drives me crazy.

So... I'm personally after a machine that makes rock solid straight stitches, reverse stitches, button holes, has a long arm, and will stitch through fairly thick materials (such as multiple layers of vinyl or brocade). What am I looking at here. New or old.

[HeathBar]

Just to update. I bought a sewing machine last weekend at a yard sale. It is an older Kenmore with a stand. For $25, I couldn't let it go. Its pretty much a basic model. I found on-line how to thread it up. I tested it out on cotton plaid material, trying to sew pleats down. I think it'll work just fine. I was having more problems with the material than I was with the machine. If I can find a way to govern the pedal, so I don't hit the higher speeds, I think it will really help the straightness of my stitches. That and lots of practice. My fist kilt of of it is either going to be a kahki colored or digital camo.
Thanks for everyones advice.

[Southern Breeze]

I've got an old Pfaff 238 industrial sewing machine. So far it's sewn everything I've thrown at it.

[Pleater]

Check the foot control - they can get trodden on and bent - unplug it and try the action in your hands - if it is resisting so that it can't be pressed down just a little and so give a very slow speed try taking it apart and check for bent metal. Putting some grease on the hinge would be a good idea, if it has no lubrication.

If, when you press the pedal there is a buzzing from the motor but the machine does not start to sew then the inside of the machine is probably in need of a clean and oiling.

I find gun oil is very good for sewing machines.

It is not unusual for bits of thread to get caught in the workings under the needle - where the bobbin fits. Do take it apart and brush out fluff and check for thread. Just how often depends on the amount of work it does. If you keep it clean and oiled it will last far longer and work better.

I used to do repairs and servicing of knitting and sewing machines, and often earned the whole fee just by applying a tablespoon full of solvent and maybe ten drops of oil. Well - there was usually a lot of mopping up of dirt and brushing out of foreign object debris as well, but basically the machine wasn't working because it needed to be cleaned.

[HeathBar]

Check the foot control - they can get trodden on and bent - unplug it and try the action in your hands - if it is resisting so that it can't be pressed down just a little and so give a very slow speed try taking it apart and check for bent metal.

The foot pedal works fine. Its just my heavy foot. The longer I'm sewing, the further I press the pedal, and the more the speed increases.
Like when I'm driving, I use pressure from my big toe to accelerate. The foot pedal on the sewing machine, has more resistance so I need to apply more pressure to get it to go. What I would like to do is see if there is something I can use to stop the pedal before I push it too far.
Does that make since?

[Pleater]

Hmm- depending on the physical design of the foot pedal a simple insertion of a block or wedge of wood, or a ball of some kind, to prevent it being depressed beyond a certain point might help to restrict the speed.

I have not experienced a hard to press foot control they are usually very light. Personally I would be investigating why it has so much resistance.

Maybe slowing down and having a lighter touch on the pedal would be a good thing to learn - one day you might be thankful you can get an extra few miles from a tank of petrol.

[Barb T]

I find sewing barefoot or in socks helps a great deal, because you can do more control with your toes when you can actually feel the treadle than you can when you have shoes or boots on.

Barb

[Alan H]

Sailrite.....www.sailrite.com

Makes "consumer sized" but "industrial strength" built sewing machines for sailmaking and canvaswork. The intermediate model comes with a walking foot which is vital for heavy canvas work. If I could justify the $$, I'd be buying one of those, or grabbing an older JUKI off of ebay. For now, I can do everything I need for my "hobby" with the old Singer and the Husky.