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17th April 06, 09:16 AM
#21
The prices on those Sailrite machines isn't bad at all
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17th April 06, 09:29 AM
#22
Originally Posted by Alan H
Sailrite..... www.sailrite.com
Makes "consumer sized" but "industrial strength" built sewing machines for sailmaking and canvaswork. The intermediate model comes with a walking foot which is vital for heavy canvas work. If I could justify the $$, I'd be buying one of those, or grabbing an older JUKI off of ebay. For now, I can do everything I need for my "hobby" with the old Singer and the Husky.
DAMN YOU ALAN!!!!
i am on the verge of burning out the little Singer that i bough a couple years back & am debating what to do for a replacement & you had to go & post those!!!
AAARRRGGGHHH!!!!!
Last edited by UmAnOnion; 17th April 06 at 09:32 AM.
ITS A KILT, G** D*** IT!
WARNING: I RUN WITH SCISSORS
“I asked Mom if I was a gifted child… she said they certainly wouldn’t have paid for me."
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17th April 06, 10:56 AM
#23
Originally Posted by UmAnOnion
DAMN YOU ALAN!!!!
i am on the verge of burning out the little Singer that i bough a couple years back & am debating what to do for a replacement & you had to go & post those!!!
AAARRRGGGHHH!!!!!
LOL!
The ONLY downside to the Sailrite machines is that they're "consumer sized"...meaning that the arm is the same size as the home sewing machines. On the other hand, that means that getting them out and setting them up on the floor or kitchen table isn't an impossible task.
However, the really long arms of the indrustrial machines is sure nice, ESPECIALLY for sailmaking and canvas work. It's not so important for kiltmaking, though it sure doesn't hurt. I've seen the intermediate Sailrite machine in person and spent about 15 minutes stitching with it and it is REALLY nice. It's got tons of power, the only thing about getting it with the big flywheel is that you don't get the instant start/stop you get with a lighter machine.
.....And there's no button-holer, which is a problem for a lot of clothes-work.. But I have to say for kiltmaking as a really serious hobby or small-time production, one of those sailrite machines with the walking foot would be the ticket.
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17th April 06, 11:39 AM
#24
a friend of mine is trying to talk me into making him a leather kilt & my poor little singer isnt quite up to the task... one of these would come in very handy for that - i can live without the button holer - if i am doing something that needs really decent buton holes i woudl sooner do them by hand.
the high arm & walking foot eould be great for the multiple layers of pleats etc when stitching...
i need to find me some new little old ladies to mug....
ITS A KILT, G** D*** IT!
WARNING: I RUN WITH SCISSORS
“I asked Mom if I was a gifted child… she said they certainly wouldn’t have paid for me."
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19th April 06, 02:25 PM
#25
been a workin'
I've been putting my new machine to work. I had the day off yesterday, so I worked on my new kilt. I bought some generic MARPAT desert camo from Hancocks Fabric. It was 40% off from 7.99 a yard. The fabric feels like denim. I'm about a third of the way through.
I haven't had any trouble from the machine, and Barb's idea of using bare feet on the pedal seems to work better. I'll keep ya posted on the progress.
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20th April 06, 08:17 AM
#26
If you're making a leather kilt, don't forget to use a leather needle in the sewing machine. Leather needles actually have knife-blade edges to cut through the leather.
B
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20th April 06, 08:56 AM
#27
Originally Posted by Barb T.
If you're making a leather kilt, don't forget to use a leather needle in the sewing machine. Leather needles actually have knife-blade edges to cut through the leather.
B
further on what barb said, always ensure that you are using the correct needle type for teh fabric you are working on. Had a *(&^ in a fabric store try to sell me round point needles (made for knits) for working on heavy duty canvas - which requires a sharp pointed needle (but not a knife edge leather needles which woud slice the threads of a woven fabric)
also be sure to match the needle weight to the weight of fabric heavier fabrics need thicker/stronger needles and nothing is more fruistrating than trying to stitch a heavy weight fabric with needles that are too light & keep breaking!!!
ITS A KILT, G** D*** IT!
WARNING: I RUN WITH SCISSORS
“I asked Mom if I was a gifted child… she said they certainly wouldn’t have paid for me."
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20th April 06, 09:30 AM
#28
Originally Posted by UmAnOnion
further on what barb said, always ensure that you are using the correct needle type for teh fabric you are working on. Had a *(&^ in a fabric store try to sell me round point needles (made for knits) for working on heavy duty canvas - which requires a sharp pointed needle (but not a knife edge leather needles which woud slice the threads of a woven fabric)
also be sure to match the needle weight to the weight of fabric heavier fabrics need thicker/stronger needles and nothing is more fruistrating than trying to stitch a heavy weight fabric with needles that are too light & keep breaking!!!
Excellant advice. I had to learn all this the hard way.
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21st April 06, 08:10 AM
#29
Originally Posted by HeathBar
I haven't had any trouble from the machine, and Barb's idea of using bare feet on the pedal seems to work better. I'll keep ya posted on the progress.
I always use bare (or socked) feet when I sew. I find that when I try with shoes on, my "driving gene" takes over all thought processes and mashes the pedal.
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26th April 06, 05:22 PM
#30
my progress
I said I would update on the progress of my kilt. So far I have sewn up the outside edge of the pleats, sewn the fell and sewn the inside edge of the pleats.
What I have left to do is remove the inside pleat above the fell, sew on the waistband and the belt loops. I will be using velco as a fastner.
Here is a pic of the kilt so far with my sewing mashine.
Not bad for $25. (sewing machine that is)
Last edited by HeathBar; 26th April 06 at 05:23 PM.
Reason: misspellings...ok I'm picky
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