Stillwater Black Heavyweight

[Scottish Chi]

After being helped by so many folks here I felt it was now my turn to make a contribution after receiving my SWK Black Heavyweight. This review is intended to be objective as possible although my preferences may also be included. The only basis for my comparison is a 6 yd casual kilt in mixed fibers that I bought on *bay in a Ferguson tartan from Heritage of Scotland (Carse of Gowrie kiltmaker). Unfortunately I have no knowledge of how a traditional 8yd 16oz kilt is constructed. I hope that will be remedied in the future.

To start with I am very impressed by Jerry’s fast response to emails. My inquiries were answered so quickly its almost as if he is psychic. The confirmation of orders were equally fast. This is the best service I have ever experienced from any online orders.

Originally I ordered the Saffron Heavyweight kilt in a 36 waist, a Buzz Kidder sporran, and a kilt pin. They arrived two days after I placed my order. Fast again! As it turns out the kilt waist was too small. I sent Jerry an email to see about returning it and ordering another in a 38 waist. I heard back within an hour and it was eventually decided to place a separate order and send the other kilt back for a refund. In this way I would be assured of getting the kilt before they ran out. After seeing the Saffron I wasn’t sure I liked the color for that type of fabric so I order the larger kilt in a Black Heavyweight instead. The new order was received two days later. See what I mean – he is consistently fast. Jerry is really good at customer satisfaction.

Both kilts are made from the same type of material just different colors. Here is where I don’t get real excited about the kilt. I know some folks are fine with a variety of materials so this is not an issue for them. It just has a softer and looser feel to the fabric. I have to say that is does feel nice. Just don’t expect a fabric like a traditional kilt. I would be interested to know what the Weathered Lamont and Black Watch material is like. It is difficult to describe since it is woven with a pattern. Unfortunately it wrinkles easily and although the pleats seem to hold it does not have that crisp look. I haven’t worn it for an extended time but I would expect after a day of wearing it would have a rumpled look.

The 38 waist was still a little snug at the second to last hole in the buckle. (I may need to shed an inch or two on my waist for that slender look on the SWK website.)
The length is 24 inches as advertised which is just right for my height.

The kilt has 29 pleats with a consistent reveal of about ¾ to 1 inch but a depth that varies from 3 ¼ to a disappointing 2 ½ inches. I would have thought the pleat depths would have been more consistent. This is the one area I would have wanted a better quality in tailoring. It does affect the drape in the back and causes some of the pleats to turn out a little. Pleats are stitched 8 ¼ inches down from the waist band.

The belt loops at 3 ¼ inch provide plenty of space for a belt to pass through without stressing the stitching.

The cast buckle part was fine but the pin that goes through the belt hole was cut a little too long and not finished smooth. It may snag. It will work fine for now and could be replace latter if necessary. The leather strap has a nice thickness, is pliable and easy to fasten.

The SWK Black Heavyweight kilt is durably constructed and the stitching is strong. Even the hole for the left strap to pass through the fabric is well finished. I believe the SWK Heavyweight kilts to be a good value and would consider the Heavyweight Black Watch if the fabric had a harder/crisper finish and the pleat depth was consistent. They are a fair price for a 100% wool kilt.

Cheers! Bill

[Southern Breeze]

Great review. I have one of the Black Stillwaters and really it. Here's the secret behind Stillwaters fast service:
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...9&page=1&pp=10

[Caradoc]

To start with I am very impressed by Jerry’s fast response to emails.

Seconded. I haven't actually bought anything from Stillwater yet, but both of the e-mails I've sent for inquiries have been answered fast.

[Panache]

Scottish Chi,

I'm glad you like your Black SWK Heavyweight. I really enjoy mine.

Cheers

[pdcorlis]

Scottish Chi
I know this is off topic but... how do you like your Carse of Gowrie?

[Blu (Ontario)]

... It just has a softer and looser feel to the fabric. I have to say that is does feel nice.... Unfortunately it wrinkles easily and although the pleats seem to hold it does not have that crisp look.... I believe the SWK Heavyweight kilts to be a good value and would consider the Heavyweight Black Watch if the fabric had a harder/crisper finish and the pleat depth was consistent. They are a fair price for a 100% wool kilt.

Hmmm... If yours is of the same manufacture as mine, it is not wool but acrylic. Secondly, "heavyweight" in this case is a bit of a misnomer. I found the fabric to be quite light. Thirdly I found the selvedge to be quite uneven. Beyond that, everything else you've stated above I quite agree with. And it is a reasonable value for a very basic informal kilt cut along traditional lines.


.

[GMan]

Don't beat around the bush, tell us what you really think.

Glad that you like it, and as has been said earlier, they are a great bargain for the price.

[mbhandy]

Hmmm... If yours is of the same manufacture as mine, it is not wool but acrylic. Secondly, "heavyweight" in this case is a bit of a misnomer. I found the fabric to be quite light. Thirdly I found the selvedge to be quite uneven. Beyond that, everything else you've stated above I quite agree with. And it is a reasonable value for a very basic informal kilt cut along traditional lines. .

The SWK Standards are acrylic but the heavyweights are 100% wool(pull up the linning and sit down and start to itch,Last years model not the Australian Merino Wool.)

MrBill

[Scottish Chi]

pdcorlis - Yes I like the Carse of Gowrie kilt but there are a few things that could be improved. I was pleased with the material (wool blend) and it wears well, holds a sharp pleat, and any wrinkles fall out easily. The cost is reasonable but there is the high shipping charge to send it to the US. It is about 6 yds with 20 or 21 pleats that have a 1 inch reveal with 3 inches depth. The bottom left top apron tends to curl out just slightly like the SWK Black heavyweight (not sure why). The bottom is hemmed not selvage. Mine is a little short and comes to the top of my knee. I would have prefered about an inch longer although I have had positive comments on how it looks.

Blu (Ontario) - I just started wearing a kilt and only recently found out about X-Marks and all the kilt sites so I am pretty ignorant about all this. Since I only found out about SWK this year it may be that the Heavyweight kilt for 2006 is wool whereas it may not have been earlier. They are advertising the fact that it is 100% wool so there may have been a change this year. I also see that the Heavyweight cost range is $99 to $159 but I have yet to find anything less than $145. The Black Watch Heavyweight is $159 and that may even be a different quality and/or weave since it is individually advertised as 16 0z Australian Merino wool and the others are not.

The selvage on mine is also a little uneven as well as the inside bottom left apron was also hemmed a little off. This makes it hang slightly lower than the top apron. I attribute these to a looser weave cloth and the difficulty in sewing a solid color material.

Some of my observations may be a little on the A*** retentive side. Part of my training as a Biologist. Both kilts are good values for the cost. If the SWK Black Watch fabric has a smoother tighter fabric I would consider another kilt from Stillwater. At this time, however, the two lower cost kilts are enough and I need to start seriously researching for a traditional 8 yd 16 oz handmade in either the Ferguson modern or Ferguson weathered (trying to decide).