Hems and pleat pressing

[Scottish Chi]

About 6 or 7 months ago I bought a wool blend kilt from Mellville (Carse of Gowrie) before knowing enough to check the length. It has been worn a few times and I find it is about an inch or more too short to come to mid knee and have the waist height proper and comfortable. There is a hem that could be let out. My questions are these: Would it be advisable to re-hem the bottom? Is it possible to press out the crease from the original bottom hem with a regular steam iron and then press in the pleats at the bottom without damaging the fabric?

Any suggestions from your experiences would be valued.

Cheers! Bill

[switchblade5984]

what type of fabric?

[Ruanaidh]

Just how short is the kilt? An acceptable length for a kilt is from mid knee to an inch above the knee. Hitting the top of the knee is the happy medium. Longer than mid knee looks "tarty" and shorter than an inch above the knee looks...... um, too short.

[James]

Actually it reads as a good length-for one is more likely to see a traditional kilt at the top of the kneecap than lower.

In fact the longer kilt tends to look sloppy-so I;d keep it as it is and wear it.

James

[Caradoc]

In fact the longer kilt tends to look sloppy-so I;d keep it as it is and wear it.

In Thompson's "So You're Going To Wear the Kilt," he mentions thinking that the longer kilt looks "trollopy."

I like that word.

[switchblade5984]

trollopy?

[way2fractious]

...wool blend kilt... Would it be advisable to re-hem the bottom? Is it possible to press out the crease from the original bottom hem with a regular steam iron and then press in the pleats at the bottom without damaging the fabric?

The length is your preference, although the way you describe it sounds fine. Any longer and the hem would hit the sensitive skin behind the knees (not good for extended periods.)

Pressing out a hem on 100% wool is done routinely with kilts of dancing and growing youngsters. Steaming wool fibers makes them relax completely and they can be reshaped. Wool blend may be tougher because of the synthetic fibers. You could try "pressing out" the crease of, say, the inside of the inverted pleat beneath the underapron. A damp pressing cloth and steam iron are required to both protect the wool and to prevent melting the synthetics. If the results are unsatisfactory, merely press the crease back in and wear it as is. If the results are satisfactory, by all means re-hem it.

[way2fractious]

trollopy?

http://www.bartleby.com/61/59/T0375900.html

[Scottish Chi]

Pressing out a hem on 100% wool is done routinely with kilts of dancing and growing youngsters. Steaming wool fibers makes them relax completely and they can be reshaped. Wool blend may be tougher because of the synthetic fibers. You could try "pressing out" the crease of, say, the inside of the inverted pleat beneath the underapron. A damp pressing cloth and steam iron are required to both protect the wool and to prevent melting the synthetics. If the results are unsatisfactory, merely press the crease back in and wear it as is. If the results are satisfactory, by all means re-hem it.

Good suggestion. I'll give this a try first before doing any permanent damage. The synthetic fibers in the blend could give some trouble and get shiny on me even with using steam and a damp cloth. Serves me right for not buying 100% wool in the first place. But it was my first kilt. All part of the learning process. In the meantime I'll check the length again. I certainly don't want to look "trollopy" or "tarty" while quaffing my stout.

Cheers! Bill

[Pleater]

Iron on the inside, press on the outside using a cloth.

When ironing you move the iron acros the garment, when pressing you just press, and adjusting the pressure to the fabric composition is advisable.

I have regularly remade my kilts, and have learned to undo the stitching and then iron the fabric until it is flat, showing no remnant of the pressing of the previous incarnation, or the pleats will not lie down properly.

I then measure for the new size and put in safety pins top and bottom so I can fold the fabric and press the fold on what will be the inside face of the pleat before starting to sew.

If you work on the inside of the hem to first flatten the fabric - go slowly and use minimum heat, turn the dial up little by little so you reach the point where the heat will take out the folds without melting any man made fibre in the fabric.

Then fold the hem, press it lightly and sew it in place, and then press the folds once the sewing is done.

If you pin the hem don't iron or press over the pins or you will get a mark in the fabric.