Skian Dubh-It-Y'Salf

[ozmeath]

I've made throwing knives out of old files.

Hey man any pics?

[Rab Gordon]

I think that the shadows of the file teeth add character and show its history so I would'nt worry about completely polishing them out.
The rate of cooling in the quench is effected a lot by the type and temperature of the oil. Heating the oil a little actually speeds up the quench as the oil circulates better. Peanut oil is supposed to be very good although I havn't tried this myself.
Hot brine is another method and is a lot safer than hot oil, although this may cool the blade too fast especially if it's very thin. Abother tip is to leave the blade just a little bit thicker until you've finished the heat treat then grind down to size.

Are you casting some silver fittings for the handle ?

Rab

[angerli]

Just tempered it in sump oil as you guys replied as per Rab's instructions.

Hi, Ozmeath!

I just couldn't help this: Some years back, I was an active member of the RROC (that's the USA's Rolls Royce Owner's Club). Yeah, I had a little old Bentley I'd fixed up. Anyway...one of our techies used to tell how he would temper bolts in plain ol' urine...his own, I might add! Always raised a few hoots of laughter at meets. One thing for sure, the material was dirt cheap...

Sandy

[TechBear]

From the photos, I think the file marks make the blade look distinctive. If anyone asks, say that you put in a lot of time to etch it to that pattern.

[ozmeath]

Hi, Ozmeath!

I just couldn't help this: Some years back, I was an active member of the RROC (that's the USA's Rolls Royce Owner's Club). Yeah, I had a little old Bentley I'd fixed up. Anyway...one of our techies used to tell how he would temper bolts in plain ol' urine...his own, I might add! Always raised a few hoots of laughter at meets. One thing for sure, the material was dirt cheap...

Sandy

Oh Sandy can you imagine the smell! I thought engine oil was bad enough... But no doubt effective, and great if you're the territorial type

TechBear and Rab, those file marks are sticking around thats for sure. I've warmed to it for the same reasons really: tells a story. And it's just as well I like them because they seem to go deep, and I don't want the blade to thin. It's already only 4mm at the thickest part of the spine, near to the tang.

Rab, I think I will cast a guard and maybe pomel in silver. Need to put some thought to the design. Also need some advice on rabbet tang handle setting into deer horn. I don't have the horn yet(tomorrow) and am not sure if it's got a hollow center or if I need to halve it to cut a recess for the tang. I'd rather leave it solid if it's possible.

[Rab Gordon]

I'd probably drill and file the hole in the antler slightly oversize for the tang then bed it in epoxy.
You could try making the hole slightly undersize then boiling to soften it and forcing it on, but I'd experiment on a spare piece first.

Rab

[ozmeath]

I'd probably drill and file the hole in the antler slightly oversize for the tang then bed it in epoxy.
You could try making the hole slightly undersize then boiling to soften it and forcing it on, but I'd experiment on a spare piece first.

Rab

Both seem viable.
When I'm putting a wooden handle on files I occasionally heat the tang and push it into the drilled hole. It seems to burn itself into it but you need to push fairly hard. And that's using pine handles. Do you think this could be a possible method? I've never worked with horn in this way before and aren't to sure how it'd behave. Also I don't want to mess with the temper either.

[bangkok kilt]

Ozmeath

I'm not much of a handy man, but being a biologist I would guess that you could 'burn' into the horn seeing that it is mainly just hardened collagen. However, I can only imagine the stench of the burning horn.

I also don't know about boiling the horn. I'm sure someone has expertise, but it seems like that could leech some of the minerals out of the horn, but I'm just guessing on this.

[TheSp8]

I have boiled horn and pushed the tang in while making patch knives for black powder use. Drill a pilot hole in the horn then boil till the core feels soft. Then all you will need to do is push the knife tang into the horn. Make sure you get it all in the first time as once the horn cools the knife stays in place. Clamping the blade in a vice and using your whole body weight behind the push works real well. I have a couple that have been in frequent use for 7 years or more and the blade is still solidly locked in the horn. The biggest thing is making sure you get a good push to get the tang all the way in the horn. I've used the same technique to redo sharpening steels, put handles on files, and other uses. Old technology is sometimes the best.

YMOS,
Tony

[auld argonian]

The "boiled horn" thing seems like it makes sense...didn't I once see a film where they had to repair the stock on a long rifle by wrapping it in boiled rawhide and letting it dry and shrink? It's always tough to join two materials that have different characteristics...one that's rigid and one that's flexible...even if the difference is small.

Best

AA