Having been making and wearing kilts for a while now I'm going to have to say that the knife pleated kilt is not the most ideal garment for a woman as it simply will not lie right on the female hip shape, or at least it will not on mine.

Utilikilts are a good option because they are symetrical, so at least if the flare of the hips plays Old Hob with the pleats it is the same both sides.

If your enquirer has any skill with a needle recomend a kilt be made with an inverted box pleat centre back and the pleats facing backwards, about 1 inch showing and another 5 to 7 inches for the depth of each of the small pleats for over half the circumference, so the large pleats of 10 to 14 inches which are under the apron are on the point of the hip bones. The neccessary supression is going to be due to the lady's own shape, which it is to be hoped she knows best for herself.

I put a small pleat of 2 inches depth at the edges of the aprons as a sort of sideways dart to shape the apron.

This means that there is less thickness at the back. This reverse Kinguisse style is flattering to the larger hipped, and the garment tends to flare to the sides like a 'proper' kilt, and have a good swing and swish.

A petticoat of soft cotton, with fold over fronts like a kilt with no pleats is a good optional extra. It will need darts, which again the lady should know where to place and what depth to make them for her own shape.

The hemline should be whatever is most apt, as the petticoat will hold out the pleats so they don't catch in the back of the knee, if it is correctly shaped, should the mid knee be the most flattering, or the selected length - it is not always the same thing.

A lot to convey, but I am assuming you want to engage the attention of the enquirer.