Pleat depth spacing preferences?

[Eric T]

Wonderful answers, all. I look forward to hearing more. Newsome uses mostly box pleats which are dimensioned to the tartans he is using at the moment. He also says most of his kilts use only around 4 yards single width. A box pleat of 2 inches will use 6 inches of fabric per pleat. I just wonder if that give it enough weigh to stay down in a breeze, and if box pleats blow up easier than knife pleats, which may have more overlap and maybe hold onto each other a bit. Any suggestions for measurements of box pleats for solid or non-tartan fabrics? How do people feel about box versus knife pleats in use?

By the way, I'm developing an Excel spreadsheet for calculating fabric needed based on waist and pleat show and cover (spacing and depth). Seems to make it easier to play around with the options.

[way2fractious]

A box pleat of 2 inches will use 6 inches of fabric per pleat. I just wonder if that give it enough weigh to stay down in a breeze, and if box pleats blow up easier than knife pleats, which may have more overlap and maybe hold onto each other a bit. Any suggestions for measurements of box pleats for solid or non-tartan fabrics? How do people feel about box versus knife pleats in use?

My earlier comments on 2-inch pleats were based on solid color or camo cotton fabrics. Sketch it out and you will notice that 2-inch knife pleats with 4-inches hidden uses 6-inches of fabric and produces 3 layers. Surprise! Sketch out 2-inch box pleats and the same result is obtained - 6-inches per pleat and 3 layers all around.

On solids, pleats (knife or box) can be any size you desire to make them; however, boxes less than 2-inches would probably take on a "feminine" look, while larger than 3 or 4-inches would defeat the concept of kilting. Knife pleats from one-half-inch to 2-inches would look O.K. and can have as much fabric tucked beneath each one as you can afford to buy (or strength to carry around on your person), thereby increasing the weight of the kilt.

My box-pleated wool kilt is no more prone to wind lift than any of my other wool or cotton casual kilts.

There is no reason to be afraid of acquiring a quality-made kilt of any style.

[Jimmy Carbomb]

Apart from the pleats, don't forget to pay attention to the outer and under aprons. My rule of thumb for a nice "body-hug" is to take your waist-size and divide it by two. That's the width of the apron at the beltline. After that, you can make your pleats about 1" in reveal. That would translate to 1 pleat for every inch remaining in the waist-line (or half your waist). It's just a simple rule-of-thumb for the first-timer in kiltmaking. This makes it so that you're not having brain hemorrages during your first attempt.

As you get ready to make number two, you'll know what your preferences are for you kilts and you can amend your techniques. For now on you first try:
Keep
It
Simple
Stupid

That last "S" is not an inference.

[bubba]

Jimmy, that works, but I prefer to use the hip measurement rather than the waist. I just like a bit wider apron.

[way2fractious]

That's the width of the apron at the beltline. After that, you can make your pleats about 1" in reveal. That would translate to 1 pleat for every inch remaining in the waist-line

Both apron and pleats were being discussed at the waistline. The aprons widen from waist to hip, and so do the pleats in the back.

Kilts I make for myself require 16 inches across the small of my back so, in Jimmy Carbomb's formula for first-timers, I'd need 16 pleats, each measuring 1-inch, at the waist. But each of those 16 pleats must measure 1 5/16 inches at the hip line (or fell) to cover my backside.

Actually, in kiltmaking, the process starts at the hip line. Then darts in the aprons and tapers in the pleats produce the waist measurements needed.

[The Wizard of BC]

Taken from my website;

Cargo Model Kilt
The Pleats have a 1.5" reveal and 3.75" depth for a Sett of 9"
For a 42" hip this kilt will have a 14" apron, 18 pleats and use 6.57yards of fabric.

Casual Model Kilt
The Pleats have a 1" reveal and 2.75" depth for a Sett of 6.5"
For a 42" hip this kilt will have a 14" apron, 28 pleats and use 7.47 yards of fabric.

Dress Model Kilt
The Pleats have a 1" reveal and 3.5" depth for a Sett of 8"
For a 42" hip this kilt will have a 16" apron, 26 pleats and use 8.04 yards of fabric.

My aprons are slightly narrower than a Traditional due to the pockets. They average 1/3 of the waist. If my apron was 1/2 the waist the pockets would be difficult to get into.

Back pleats, deep pleats and reverse pleats are 1/2 of apron width.

I hope this helps.

[Jimmy Carbomb]

Hip measurements ARE the best measurement for making a kilt... for one that knows what's going on AND utilizing a fell stitch. No question about it!

For a first-timer, the last thing I want to do is get you (in the least bit) confused or aggravated about sizing and taper. It's not fun. If you, however, have the skills and the wherewithall for this... the basics can be spelled out. Let us know your skill level and your expectations with this first attempt!

Early BearKilts were simply a beltline with pleats draping down. They were very easy to understand and held-up well (I still own one). As time went by, they became more intricate and even better made ( I have one of those too). That's a wonderful way to proceed with your attempts.

I've made hundreds of kilts in every style you can image. It just doesn't come with the first try. Be patient and realize that it can take quite a few kilts to get them to what you're "seeing" as your goal. I just can't wait to see your original touches in the future!