Fellow Xmarks tartan owners....

**Riverkilt** · 5th June 06, 10:17 AM

Boy does a picture help!!

I've been following both threads and staring at my kilt and scratching my head (there's always 2% who don't get the word).

Okay, now that I can SEE what's being talked about I can see that my kilt is similar. Only, for whatever reason, my selvedge is turned back so that the entire width of the bottom white stripe has the blue, not just half.

Looking at the kilt, and pics of the kilt, I'm not sure I would want a whiter stripe along the selvedge, nor would I want the bottom white stripe eliminated by a hem.

If the bottom white stripe were white as the rest I think it might look a bit like I was wearing an old hoop skirt frame deal.

If the bottom white stripe were hemmed up I think the tartan kilt would look chopped or unfinished.

To me (yes I know I don't know much) this sort of softer white along the hem provides sort of a transition, a fade out if you will. Its there, but its not there as strong.

And, I can guarantee I've never had a comment about it, even from the kilt police at games. And if I sorta know what I'm looking for and stare at it and stare at it and stare at it and can't figure it out until a picture is posted with comparative arrows I don't expect the general public is gonna notice and I'm certainly not gonna lose any sleep over it.

I do appreciate all the posts that have helped me expand my knowledge of selvedges though.

Is this a great board or what??!!

Ron

**MacWage** · 5th June 06, 06:21 PM

Sorry for opening this can of worms from the original thread. Yet I found this discussion VERY interesting and helpful. I learned a lot about the weaving process, what to look for, and what counts as a "problem" for kilt making.

As for this particular kilt maker, I'm impressed that he/they expressed such interested in it, showing that he/they care about the product.

Despite this "problem," it is definately on my short list.

Also, thanks Matt, Barb, and other posters for the info! The depth of wisdom and knowledge on this little forum often surprises me.

**Blu (Ontario)** · 5th June 06, 07:56 PM

I have corresponded briefly with Mr. Kirkbright by e-mail and he has assured me that the return of the weft at the selvedge requires approx. 1 inch... a function of the weaving equipment. The white stripe just happens to fall within that boundary.

I asked if it would be possible to re-center the sett so that the white stripe missed the selvedge.

He replied that it might be possible but it would mean adjusting the sett size slightly in order to fit into the 60" width... something that could be open to consideration in a future run.

At this point in time, I can only suggest that anyone considering purchasing any future run of Xmarks tartan would be well advised to do so. There is no doubt in my mind that it will be perfection.

**Moosehead** · 5th June 06, 08:36 PM

At this point in time, I can only suggest that anyone considering purchasing any future run of Xmarks tartan would be well advised to do so. There is no doubt in my mind that it will be perfection.

Well said, Blu. Having spent the day in a woolen mill today, I can say, although it may be very technical, it ain't perfection. I'm impressed regardless.

**RockyR** · 6th June 06, 05:58 AM

Without quoting several different people on this thread, I will say that I agree with 100% of what Matt said. I'm not trying to skirt the issue, I just don't think I need to try to re-articulate the same sentiments that Matt already stated.

I apologize if it seems like I am "promoting a certain mill" for my own selfish purposes. That was not my intention at all (I assume that I was the person Gordon was referring to on the other thread). In fact, I use / have used several mills for my wool (F&K, Batley, HOE, Strath, MM, Loch as well as a few US based mills). They each have their positives and negatives. For reasons outlined in the other thread, I thought Batley would be a good choice.

Ron... You know how much I like/respect you, so PLEASE don't take this personally in any way. There's a difference between what Matt, Barb and I notice while making a kilt and what the average kilt wearer notices. We're staring close up at the fabric for 20 + hours making a kilt and have to manipulate the material to do certain things to it to get it finished that the average kilt wearer does not do. That's where we notice things that are not perfect where you may not.

Bottom line... if the CUSTOMER's happy with the finished kilt, I'm happy. I was just discussing little technical faults with Barb on the other thread. It's not like ANYONE on XMARKS obsesses over tartan or kilts or anything... right?!?! HAHAHAHA

**Robinhood** · 6th June 06, 07:53 AM

Is anything going to be done to make the setts the same
width from one selvedge to the other?

**Riverkilt** · 6th June 06, 09:10 AM

I understand Rocky.

The guy wearing the kilt probably has the worst view of all.

Part of my life is staying out of black and white issues...gray is good. Imperfection is perfection.

I think if someone ever came up to me and commented on my kilt selvedge I'd fall over dead from amazement.

I also understand the kiltmaker's need for a sharp look and not taking the hit for something created at the mill level.

Bottom line for me. I got mine. I'm a happy camper. I hope this situation shakes out for the benefit of all involved, at all levels.

Ron