My first kilt:I bought a hand made kilt from an old man that used to make them and sell them at "Rendezvous" (5 day camps of people living in the pre 1840's of America. Mountain men, indians, etc. VERY primative camping and living.) Sadly to say, he has passed on.
It is a wool kilt done in the old "Braveheart" tartan, 9 yards. Very thick and heavy. It is not stitched, so the pleats have to be set by hand, and takes about 20 minutes to put on with a belt and a kilt pin. But no tartan fly.