Assessing Kiltmakers Remotely

[Rex_Tremende]

Let’s say that a person has decided to get his first quality, made-to-measure, traditional kilt in an excellent grade wool tartan. Money is no object (though fairness is), and while an excessive waiting period is unacceptable (say, greater than six months or so, depending on other confidence factors), money will not be used in an attempt to get a bump up in the customer queue, as though that were possible. The only things that matter are:

• The workmanship is superb (for example, stitching is refined, uniform, and durable; measurements are exacting; allowances are cunning)
• The raw materials are excellent and substantial, and exhibit aesthetically pleasing properties on their own (for example, buckles have weight and dimension—they are not stamped—and have no sharp edges; the tartan is correct; the fabric is free of any visible flaws; the leather is supple, but sturdy)
• The kiltmaker’s instructions for measuring produce consistent, customer-pleasing results
• Guarantees are backed up by action

As there are many kiltmakers out there, but few who are physically accessible, how does a first-time customer make his assessment and selection from afar? Should other factors be considered? Can one request an example of something without insulting or annoying the maker? (I would guess if there’s a waiting list, a kiltmaker does not need to prove his or her qualifications to the circumspect person.) If one assumes that all recommendations begin equally (that is to say, people make recommendations based on personal satisfaction), what particular testimony should stand out? Is it fair or wise to rule out any kiltmaker with whom one cannot establish an open channel of communication and easy rapport?

While the prospective customer is not seeking offers of work from the kiltmakers on this forum, I would appreciate their feedback on these questions if they are willing to share it. I ask this from my experience once as a prospective puppy owner, when the most sound advice came from conscientious breeders. The underlying message was, “if you understand these things, the quality of my labors will be self-evident, but do your homework, make the comparisons, and see for yourself.”

For the record, the prospective kilt buyer will also be buying Barb’s book in order to increase his competence in the subject.

Thanks,
Rex in Cincinnati

[Riverkilt]

Rex,

I'm prejudiced of course, but I can't see how anyone would go wrong using Kathy Lare. www.kathyskilts.com

With no intention of lessoning the skills of other find kiltmakers Kathy's the only U.S. Kiltmaker I know of that has journeyed to the Keith School of Kiltmaking in Scotland to study kiltmaking many years ago, and gone back to add to her skills. She's a quiet, modest lady, so not much to beat her own drum. Ya gotta go find her.

She's very fair financially and only charges about 40% up front to go find the tartan and fabric desired. She'll give you a price for the completed kilt and accessories if you want them too, but won't bill you until the kilt is completed and ready to ship to you.

She's currently sewing up my fifth Kathy's Kilt...I'm sold.

Kathy should certainly be on anyone's list with the requirements you listed.

Ron

[KiltedCodeWarrior]

Interesting question Rex, and very appropriate for kilt buyers, at least in today's world where kilt makers are not found in every city on every street corner. I know for me, it was reading the reviews and experiences on this forum that drove my kilt purchases from specific makers. And still does. I have only been lucky enough to meet 2 kilt makers in person, Matt Newsome and just recently Angus Harvey. Matt really did not have samples of his ware with him (he was representing the Museum, not his own kilt making skills). Angus has a stall at the Renn Faire and does have off the rack kilts available for perusal.

I guess your friend will just have to rely on others experiences, or take the plunge with an un/lesser known kilt maker.

[Blu (Ontario)]

You've pretty much covered the basics in your post.

Beyond that... it's all spider sense!

[Mike1]

• The workmanship is superb (for example, stitching is refined, uniform, and durable; measurements are exacting; allowances are cunning)
• The raw materials are excellent and substantial, and exhibit aesthetically pleasing properties on their own (for example, buckles have weight and dimension—they are not stamped—and have no sharp edges; the tartan is correct; the fabric is free of any visible flaws; the leather is supple, but sturdy)
• The kiltmaker’s instructions for measuring produce consistent, customer-pleasing results
• Guarantees are backed up by action

Rex, A couple of years back, I made up my mind that I was going to have a top-of-the-line kilt made. I wasn't going to quibble about cost, I was going to find the best kiltmaker I could find and pay whatever it cost to get a kilt.

I spent a considerable amount of time online, looking and sending queries by e-mail (most of which were ignored, BTW). One kiltmaker was always prompt with responses, but I had never heard of the gentleman. But everything I could find about the company was first cabin. And I'll not lie to you, the price was first cabin, as well. After 6 or 8 e-mail exchanges, I took the plunge and placed my order.

5 yards of double-width 13 oz. Lochcarron Ancient Lamont wool was ordered. By the time we were finished with the exchange, the freight and the duty, the wool came to $657.65. 9 yards of split material, 10,000+ hand-sewn stitches, 60+ hours and $430.00 later, I had an incredible heirloom kilt.

You can do the math, it was certainly not inexpensive. However, I cannot see how the kilt could possibly have fit any better, had the kiltmaker done the actual measures, himself. This was one of the clues that this kiltmaker might be a cut above - I supplied him with 12 different measures. When he contacted Lochcarron, they had the wool on hand, but it was flawed and the kiltmaker refused it, so we had to wait for another mill run. And the kilt still ended up being in my hands before the original quoted date. The kiltmaker went out of his way to help me, at every step of the process.

Now I am not sure if this is the type of kilt and kiltmaker that you are talking about. If it is, contact Garrett Barreth at White Thistle Kiltmakers. Spend some time looking Garrett's Web site over, it's time well spent (to borrow a phrase).

Garrett spent 2 weeks of every month, for a four-year period, in Scotland, apprenticing under 7 Scots kiltmakers. And he obviously was an excellent student with excellent mentors. Some of his advertising refers to invisible stitches and that is exactly what they are.

I warned you, up front, about the price you are going to pay. But every time I strap that dream on, I remember what a bargain it actually was. There is very definitely a market for more economic alternatives (I own one and have just ordered another), but I wish everyone had the chance to wear a White Thistle, just once.

[Scottish Chi]

For the record, the prospective kilt buyer will also be buying Barb’s book in order to increase his competence in the subject.

Thanks,
Rex in Cincinnati

At the moment my first traditional 16 oz 8 yd kilt is being made. The expense is such that this is a major purchase and there is some anxiety. However, XMarks posts from so many knowledgable and experienced folks gave me enough confidence that I finally made a choice. Fortunately there have been quite a few recommended kiltmakers from which to choose. After buying Barb's book, reading her responses on this forum, and seeing a picture of the exact kilt I was interested in that she made for her daughter my decision was made. Now I wait while she does her magic.

If it wasn't for the people on XMarks I suppose I would either still be looking or would have bought a kilt of a lesser quality (trying to get a bargin by buying on price). I can't think of a better place than XMarks to get a proper education in kilts.

Cheers! Bill

[Kilted Stuart]

I think you can do all the legwork, research and surfing you feel you need to satify your own mind. You may be lucky to see the kiltmaker at a games or show or just talk on the phone. You hear the reviews on here that other non-members and lurkers post but it still boils down to feel. Like any product you order, you just get a good feeling enough to take the chance.

All the kiltmakers here have a unique yet similar product. You can't go that wrong with the product after hearing the reviews and then fireing off a quick PM to the new kilt owner. They will tell you a more personal review that may put your mind at ease. I had to take a chance on a young kiltmaker that was also my friend (CCK). It would have been really hard to explain to a friend that the kilt I bought was sub-par and not worth the fabric it was made from.
I took the chance and continue buying from him in all sorts of fabric ( PV to wool). There are a few kiltmakers from x-marks that I would't think twice about buying from. I know my money would be well spent and a unique and personal custom garment would be at my door in due time. There is also a few that make a product that I just don't like myself, but others fancy.

Every one has there favorites, and a few they would like to try out next.
Once you get a good feeling about them you next just have to take a chance.
You just trust others and your own feelings and go for it.
I don't like every car I buy but there i'm out thousands. In kilts i'm only out a few hundreds. I'll take that risk and trust my judgement.

Kilted Stuart

[Colin]

If money is not a huge factor, check out Geoffery Tailors. I have not heard one negative comment about them since I have been on these forums (3 years). They also have the expertise, and the approval of Hamish. http://www.geoffreykilts.co.uk/

It's hard accessing work you can't see in person, and people on this forum will tell you to go to this person, or this shop, and a deal here, but I think if you are looking for an extremly well made traditional kit, go with someone with the history and tradition of kilt making.

Just my 2 bits. I should point out taht I do not have a kilt from Geoffery Tailor nor do I see one in my near future. However, if I had the money I would not hesitate to order from them given their reputation.

[macwilkin]

It's hard accessing work you can't see in person, and people on this forum will tell you to go to this person, or this shop, and a deal here, but I think if you are looking for an extremly well made traditional kit, go with someone with the history and tradition of kilt making.

Spot on and well said, Colin. Case in point would be kiltmakers like Burnett & Struth, Kinloch Anderson and William Chisholm.

T.

[Kilted KT]

This is an excellent thread!!! although I've been here a while now ( actually only five months, but who is counting?) I see that this thread has more specific info about how to buy a tartan kilt, and how to judge a kiltmaker in one place than anywhere else I've seen!


great work all!!