Yet another jacket question

[Hamish]

Gents:

Does anyone know of a source for an Argyll or Crail jacket rendered from something other than heavyweight wool? I can understand the merits of wool, but what is suitable for the dampish and cool Scots environment at times "just don't work" in the dampish and sauna-like Gulf Coast of Texas.

Many thanks in advance,

KC

Hi KC,

I have never seen either of these styles made of anything other than tweed and/or woollen Barathea. However, our British summer has been so unbearably hot that I have been prompted into discussing an alternative fabric for an Argyll with one of my kiltmakers in Scotland. My suggestion was a cotton twill such as the old British Colonial type of clothing was made from when I was a lad. It would require constant pressing to keep it looking neat (unless there is a modern equivalent that is crease-resistant, perhaps like the poly-cotton Steve uses in his Freedom Kilts!), and because of the thinness of that fabric, it could only suggest the Argyll's features. Anyway, we are looking into this and, if I get anything positive fed back to me, I'll post the details here.

[Kid Cossack]

. . . which is how my Russian wife has taught me to say "Thank you!" Muchly appreciated, Hamish. The weather lately has been around 35 degrees during the day (Celsius, not Fahrenheit) and humidity around 90 percent. That makes an otherwise lovely woolen jacket a bit much to bear!

Also, I saw your video clip on sweeping the pleats, linked from Matt Newsome's blog---very good job, sir.

[Riverkilt]

Hey Kid,

You might try talking to some of the kiltmakers who hand sew kilts. Kathy Lare measured me up for a jacket, for when I can afford one...would guess, she, or other kiltmakers would be happy to sew a jacket up in whatever it is you want/need. Can't hurt to ask.

www.kathyskilts.com

Ron

[Southern Breeze]

Have you seen Alan H's site for modifying a jacket? Even if your sewing ability is zilch it'll still give an idea of what can be done plus refer a tailor to.

[Hamish]

Preevyet CT,

. . . which is how my Russian wife has taught me to say "Thank you!" Muchly appreciated, Hamish. The weather lately has been around 35 degrees during the day (Celsius, not Fahrenheit) and humidity around 90 percent. That makes an otherwise lovely woolen jacket a bit much to bear!

Neehzashtah, CT! Neehzashtah.

Also, I saw your video clip on sweeping the pleats, linked from Matt Newsome's blog---very good job, sir.

Bahleeshoyeh spahsseebah.

Spahkoynigh nochyee,
Ham.

[Scott Gilmore]

.... It would require constant pressing to keep it looking neat (unless there is a modern equivalent that is crease-resistant, perhaps like the poly-cotton Steve uses in his Freedom Kilts!), and because of the thinness of that fabric, it could only suggest the Argyll's features. ....

I agree that such fabric would be "in the style of" rather than the real thing, but there are seemingly miraculous treatments available for 100% cotton that render it virtually wrinkle free.

It really is remarkable. As the only manufacturer I can find locally that produces slim fit 100% cotton dress shirts in solid colors is Brooks Brothers, that's what I wear, even though they're a bit pricey. If they can do it with this fabric, they can do it with anything, and it is remarkably durable. When my work shirts need laundering, I simply throw it in the washer along with other whites, and then a light tumble dry and it comes out looking like it was just pressed. It feels like cheating every time.

...
What these shirts look like straight out of the dryer, and in use, at work.

The only thing you need to remember with fabrics treated thus is that you should not use starch if you do elect to iron them as the enzymes in the starch breaks down the magic stuff they use to keep the garment wrinkle free.

Regards,
Scott Gilmore

[Hamish]

I agree that such fabric would be "in the style of" rather than the real thing, but there are seemingly miraculous treatments available for 100% cotton that render it virtually wrinkle free.

It really is remarkable. As the only manufacturer I can find locally that produces slim fit 100% cotton dress shirts in solid colors is Brooks Brothers, that's what I wear, even though they're a bit pricey. If they can do it with this fabric, they can do it with anything, and it is remarkably durable. When my work shirts need laundering, I simply throw it in the washer along with other whites, and then a light tumble dry and it comes out looking like it was just pressed. It feels like cheating every time.

...
What these shirts look like straight out of the dryer, and in use, at work.

The only thing you need to remember with fabrics treated thus is that you should not use starch if you do elect to iron them as the enzymes in the starch breaks down the magic stuff they use to keep the garment wrinkle free.

Regards,
Scott Gilmore

Thank you for all of that information, Scott. The fabric I am thinking of is considerably thicker/heavier than shirting material, but I daresay the same principles can be applied. I do not know the Brooks Brothers label - we probably do not have their garments over here - but we do have shirts that claim never to need ironing. That certainly has never been my experience though, as I have always found it necessary to iron my shirts whatever the wrappers state!! Maybe that is because I do not have a dryer. I drip-dry most of my laundry.

[An t-Ileach]

I remember the Colonial Jackets Hamish is on about - I used to wear them in Malaya (that was pretty damp and hot). Heavy cotton drill material for day wear, they needed starching and pressing every day: do you have a batman (wives don't count; they tend to answer back and follow their own schedule)?

[Kid Cossack]

I am amazingly bereft of batmen, squires and so forth. Malaya, eh? That sounds as if it would put even Houston in the shade (so to speak) in terms of heat and humidity. I fear it's going to mean a hunt through the thrift shops, then, and some study on Alan H.'s kilt-jacket modifications. For a short while, I was a dab enough hand with needle and thread, but it's been years since I've done aught for sewing.

I did wonder some whether the same sort of poly-vis that Rocky uses for the USAKs could work for suiting material . . .

Kid Cossack

[macwilkin]

I do not know the Brooks Brothers label - we probably do not have their garments over here...

Brooks Brothers, Hamish, is one of the oldes men's clothiers in the United States. It was founded in 1818 in New York City, and supplied uniforms to several of the New York militia regiments during the American Civil War, as well as making Teddy Roosevelt's "Rough Rider" uniform during the Spanish-American War of 1898.

I own several of the "no-iron" dress shirts from BB that Scott mentioned, and they are great! Brooks Brothers has an outlet store in Missouri at the Lake of the Ozarks, so whenever I'm at the lake, I always have to stop and make a purchase! :mrgreen:

Cheers,

Todd