Assessing Kiltmakers Remotely

[Rex_Tremende]

I see that this thread has more specific info about how to buy a tartan kilt, and how to judge a kiltmaker in one place than anywhere else I've seen!

That was the idea: to concentrate the wisdom. While recommendations are appreciated on one level, I am more interested in the thinking that precedes the decision, the relevant clues, in an attempt to further qualify (if not quantify) the "gut feel." Each buyer has his own set of prioritized requirements, but I suspect that the vetting process is common.

Thanks for the feedback,
Rex in Cincinnati

[morrison]

........thinking that precedes the decision, .......
Thanks for the feedback,
Rex in Cincinnati

Rex, this is a clear case of thought before the Question. Provocative prose in an important question. It illustrates for me an excellent set of points for consideration as I narrow the field of provider candidates. Thanks mucho!

[Fedgunner]

I agree with KT and that is why I'm giving this thread a bump.
(I tripped across this doing research on my next hand sewn)

[The Wizard of BC]

Wow, I'm glad this thread popped up again because I missed it the first time around.

Here are some thoughts from a kiltmaker about how to assess a good kiltmaker from afar.

1) I'm assuming that you are going to be communicating via e-mail or phone. So the first criteria should be does the kiltmaker respond promptly and do their responses address your questions and concerns.
I spend a good portion of my mornings speaking to other kiltmakers, suppliers of kilt related products, customers and prospective customers. I feel answering correspondence to be a VERY important part of my business. But not all do. I have had times when I have waited over a week for a return to an e-mail. I've also had people on the phone who will talk about everything and anything but answering your direct question. (Almost like getting the 'canned" speech or promo)

2) Your prospective kiltmaker should have a "real" presence. Now I'm not saying they should have a brick and mortar storefront but anyone who professes to be a reputable Traditional Kiltmaker and only does business over e-bay probably is not what they claim.
Many of the best kiltmakers work out of their home or have second careers like Barb Tewksbury. What I'm saying is that if you really wanted to visit them would it be possible. Say for example you call up Sally Sorefinger about her kilts and ask if there is a way to see examples of her work and she responds with something like "No, I only deal over my website", go somewhere else. Even if the kiltmaker says they will be at the next Highland Games would be good enough.

3) If the kiltmaker has a website, does it contain photos of their work. And is it actually their work. Can you ask them for a review or recommendation from another customer.
Every kiltmaker worth their salt that I know is very proud of their work and will find some way for you to see and evaluate it.

4) I can tell within the first few sentences when a prospective customer has done their homework. They ask the right questions. They want to know about things like depth of Deep and Reverse Pleats, about how I think the kilt should be pleated to best show off the Tartan, etc. It is a pleasure to answer those questions. What I hate is when some guy calls and asks things like "Can you get me a kilt with the whole nine yards?" or "Do you have a blue kilt like so-&-so was wearing on TV last night, in my size? I want to wear it to a wedding next week."

5) Does your prospective kiltmaker have a waiting list? Any good kiltmaker will tell you right up front that it will be 'x' weeks for your kilt. They will explain about ordering the fabric and waiting for it to come in, they will tell you about the 35 customers ahead of you in the line-up.
Any kiltmaker that tells you they can have a Tank in your hands in two weeks should be avoided.

6) Will your kiltmaker accept a down payment to cover ordering the fabric with the remainder due prior to the start of sewing? Not all will but most do. We understand that a good kilt is a lot of money for most people and try to offer some way to make it a little easier for them. I also believe that if you ask the question just that way (I'll pay for you to order the fabric and the rest when your ready to make the kilt), most will agree. We know that at least we are not out of pocket for fabric in a rare tartan knowing that no one else will ever order a kilt from it.

7) What is your kiltmakers guarantee? If a mistake is made or a problem found later will the kiltmaker stand behind their work. I'm not saying that they owe you alterations when you gain weight, but if some stitching comes out will they fix it.

That should give a prospective kilt buyer some ideas of what to look for.

The best advice anyone can give is DO YOUR HOMEWORK! If you are going to invest in a Tank you owe it to yourself to do a little research.

I would also emphasis the need to take your time, ask questions, and then go sit on your decision for a while. I often tell my customers, especially when I have a young couple where it seems he wants a kilt but she isn't too keen on the idea, to go down to the corner coffee shop and talk it over. I know full well that nine times out of ten I'll never see that customer again. But I also know that if they come back they know that a kilt is what they really want.

[ChattanCat]

As a newbie kilt maker, it is most important to have frank and timely communications. I would bend over backwards to satisfy a customer. It really doesn't matter what the kiltmaker thinks, it is how your customer thinks and feels about the product.

In my limited experience, the material is only part of the product. Customer satisfaction is #1, followed by #2 Customer satisfaction, etc... Don't buy an off the shelf product if your satisfaction is for low cost material and high quality workmanship. If you want the best, get recommendations and gain trust in the kiltmaker. It reduces the frustration factor while jonesing for the kilt. Once you get the product, try it on first before removing the basting. If it isn't basted, you probably opted for an economy kilt. No problem, if you are satisfied, if not return it for a refund or rework. You might want to check the kiltmakers warrantee too. See if they will accept unconditional warrantee for repair (including shipping).


CC

[Stewart Rendall]

Is it fair or wise to rule out any kiltmaker with whom one cannot establish an open channel of communication and easy rapport?

I would say so, yes.

Wizard of BC, I agree with almost everything you have written there, but:

Any kiltmaker that tells you they can have a Tank in your hands in two weeks should be avoided.

I think this is unfair. A full order book is not necessarily a sign of a good kiltmaker, especially when you take into account the sheer number of kiltmakers here in Edinburgh. I imagine it's completely different set of affairs here than for you in Canada where there can only be less competition.

I would think the various G**d Bros. outlets have full order books, but would you take that as a recommendation?

Do you think that the recently defunct (due to lack of kilt sales) 120 year old Tartan Gift Shop on the Royal Mile wouldn't have jumped at the chance to supply a 'tank' to someone a.s.a.p if it meant getting that order ahead of the competition?

The ubiquitous tartan tat stores and the weak dollar/strong pound have taken their toll on the traditional Scottish kiltmaker, so a promise to supply a customer quickly shouldn't immediately be taken as a sign of poor workmanship.
My own kilts are hand crafted to the highest standard. This doesn't mean the order book is always full, meaning I can sometimes fast-track a kilt for a customer in need.

I think if one takes all your other points into consideration, and most others throughout the thread, a shoddy kiltmaker should be easy to spot.
Taken in isolation, I don't think speed of service should necessarily be a worrying sign.

[James MacMillan]

Choosing a kiltmaker is a very long and hard process! If you do not have the luxury of actually visiting with them, you must gage everything that you can find against your own planned use of the kilt. Try to get information from previous customers. Get information from everywhere. Review everything. Then, in the final analysis, you must trust your gut feeling and you must take a chance.

The absolute best thing that a kiltmaker can hope for is to have many satisfied customers.

A customer who is not satisfied with his purchase, will, at the very least, never buy again. A satisfied customer will return, will sing praises, and will draw more customers into the fold.

I wish we had a Better Business Bureau of kiltmakers, but we don’t. X-Marks is the closest thing that we have to a Kiltmakers BBB -- so use it.

One problem with the good kiltmakers, is the long, long, long lead time in getting your kilt. Once a kiltmaker has established himself, they get very busy. Of course, this is what he (or she) wants.

[Rex_Tremende]

Wow, I'm glad this thread popped up again because I missed it the first time around.

Here are some thoughts from a kiltmaker about how to assess a good kiltmaker from afar.

Steve, thanks for sharing those thoughts - very much what I was hoping to draw out.

On a side note, I have to say...

Any kiltmaker that tells you they can have a Tank in your hands in two weeks should be avoided.

...though she did not promise this, a certain kiltmaker very nearly delivered as well.

Try to get information from previous customers. Get information from everywhere. Review everything. Then, in the final analysis, you must trust your gut feeling and you must take a chance.

Yes, for sure, but...

If one assumes that all recommendations begin equally (that is to say, people make recommendations based on personal satisfaction), what particular testimony should stand out?

So, what informs your gut, in your experience?

[Ian.MacAllan]

What I dislike most about trying to select a kiltmaker is what I disliked most when I was interviewing job applicants: the feeling that I'm not qualifying them, I'm disqualifying them and accepting the remainder. But because I can't give business to every kiltmaker of whom I know (just as I couldn't hire every applicant who seemed well qualified) I have decided to use, as part of my mix, a criterion that no one else has mentioned: the extent to which a kiltmaker has shared his knowledge of his skill with the community at large and not just with those who have identified themselves as prospective customers.

Two members of this forum have distinguished themselves in this regard, one by publishing a book which has taught me much about identifying expert work and the other by publishing on the web an extraordinary amount of credible information on separating fact from fantasy about the history of Highland attire. Please don't ask how I will choose between them. Maybe if I can get a decent price for my house I'll avoid having to choose.

.

[McClef]

There are so many factors and obviously people take note of comments and recommendations made by people in these forums.

Distance can be a factor also especially when an ocean is in the way and tariffs and paperwork and exchange rates also have to come into the equation.

Also time factors when there is a deadline to meet.

But we can still put kilt makers upon our wish lists!