First attempt...

[turpin]

Jeez! I'd have to see it first. I'd be scared to do it otherwise. It would be cool if one of the kiltmakers could post a video of the process.

[SSgt Baloo]

Jeez! I'd have to see it first. I'd be scared to do it otherwise. It would be cool if one of the kiltmakers could post a video of the process.

Actually, it's a pretty good method for splitting woven cloth in a straight line, as long as you want the "cut" to be parallel to the warp or woof. I made a (sort of) blanket capote/inverness cape from 2 army blankets. This made for a fairly warm & rain-resistant garment, even though it's unlined.

The instructions for the capote I based the garment on insisted that you "snip and tear", as this would ensure less ravelling. The only kind of cloth I've run across thus far which doesn't seem to work that way is anything made from very strong fiber. Linen, some man-made fibers, and (I presume) silk don't tear very well.

--SSgt Baloo

[Barb T]

OK. As far as the "splits" go, you should put _more_ than half in the apron at the waist, and _less_ than half in the apron at the hips (because everyone's butts stick out behind). So, with your measurements, I'd do the following:

w: 37 1/2
h: 44

splits:

waist: 19 1/2" in the apron; 18" in the pleats
hips: 21 1/2" in the apron; 22 1/2" in the pleats

That will also reduce the taper on each side to something that is very manageable. I've made kilts with as much as 2.5 -3" on each side, but it is _tough_.

23 pleats - your tartan must have a pretty big sett!!

each pleat at waist: 1/2 + 1/4 + 1/32 would be spot on

each pleat at hips: 1/2 + 1/4 + 1/8 + 1/16 + 1/32 would be 1/4" too small; 1" would be 1/2" too big.

Sooooo, if you make the pleats at the waist each 3/4" plus 1/32", it'll be perfect. If you leave off the 1/32 and make each pleat exactly 3/4", it will be about 3/4" too small at the waist. So, I'd make each pleat a scosh bigger than 3/4" at the waist. You definitely don't want it too small.

If you make each pleat 1" at the hips, the kilt will be 1/2" too big. For your first kilt, I'd just leave it at that (again, it's better to be a little big than a little small). Just try not to make them bigger than an inch.

Cheers!

Barb

[Barb T]

As far as ripping goes, it's a very reliable way to get a straight "cut". If you were to go to a fabric store that sells expensive fabric, that's the _only_ way they make their "cuts". A snip and a rip.

To be honest, though, I sometimes find that the heaviest tartan doesn't rip cleanly without pulling the occasional thread askew. For heavy tartan, I commonly use scissors. Don't tell Elsie that.......

Hogs and quiches,

B

[Kilted Taper]

OK. As far as the "splits" go, you should put _more_ than half in the apron at the waist, and _less_ than half in the apron at the hips (because everyone's butts stick out behind). So, with your measurements, I'd do the following:

w: 37 1/2
h: 44

splits:

waist: 19 1/2" in the apron; 18" in the pleats
hips: 21 1/2" in the apron; 22 1/2" in the pleats

I was going off memory, so I may actaully have that on my worksheet. I'll check when I get home tonight. If not, I'll make that fix.

23 pleats - your tartan must have a pretty big sett!!

It's an Anderson tartan. If I recall, it's something along the lines of an 8" sett.
Again, going off of memory

each pleat at waist: 1/2 + 1/4 + 1/32 would be spot on

each pleat at hips: 1/2 + 1/4 + 1/8 + 1/16 + 1/32 would be 1/4" too small; 1" would be 1/2" too big.

Sooooo, if you make the pleats at the waist each 3/4" plus 1/32", it'll be perfect. If you leave off the 1/32 and make each pleat exactly 3/4", it will be about 3/4" too small at the waist. So, I'd make each pleat a scosh bigger than 3/4" at the waist. You definitely don't want it too small.

If you make each pleat 1" at the hips, the kilt will be 1/2" too big. For your first kilt, I'd just leave it at that (again, it's better to be a little big than a little small). Just try not to make them bigger than an inch.

Cheers!

Barb

Thanks again Barb. We'll see how far I get tonight!

[HeathBar]

I've finished one and am about to finish a second using Barb's book. And I ripped the cloth both times. Yeah, I was a little nervous about it. But sometimes you just gotta grip it -n- rip it. When you do rip it, you get this hint of a burning smell. I guess thats the smell of a kilt being born.

[turpin]

As far as ripping goes, it's a very reliable way to get a straight "cut". If you were to go to a fabric store that sells expensive fabric, that's the _only_ way they make their "cuts". A snip and a rip.

To be honest, though, I sometimes find that the heaviest tartan doesn't rip cleanly without pulling the occasional thread askew. For heavy tartan, I commonly use scissors. Don't tell Elsie that.......

Hogs and quiches,

B

Mercy Buckles, Metamucil. I appreciate the info. Being in Atlanta area, not a lot of worsted is sold in fabric stores.

[Kilted Taper]

Alrighty. Got home last night and checked the measurements. I had it right at home (hip splits) regardless of what I put in the post. I did however take out the basting from the apron and chalked the flare. Cut it down to between 1" - 1 1/4" as opposed to the 2" I originally had. Looks a little better if you ask me.

I know this first pleat (apron edge to pleat) is going to be tricky. And I'm sure I'll have some questions. Need to get some proper color thread before I start that though. All I have is black right now.

[Kilted Taper]

Just cause I'm bored....and my finger hurts (no thimble yet ), here are some pics of what I'm working on.

First, the tartan (Anderson):


Decided to pleat to the stripe. Here was the winner of the "test run" to see what I liked best:


I've got the apron edge sewn down and 3 pleats. Chalk marks are for the strap hole. Now, I know the stripes aren't matching up perfectly, but I think there has been improvement from the first pleat:

[way2fractious]

It's gratifying to see another soul wander down this lonely path of kiltmaking.

Just cause I'm bored....and my finger hurts (no thimble yet )...

All my thimbles come from Wal-Mart or Joanne's, because I'm too scattered to remember to make some using Barb's pattern posted around here somewhere.

I've got the apron edge sewn down and 3 pleats. Chalk marks are for the strap hole. Now, I know the stripes aren't matching up perfectly, but I think there has been improvement from the first pleat...

A friendly suggestion, even though I know it doesn't sound friendly in the least, is to learn the fine art of taking such delicate seams apart and resewing those first few pleats. If by the third or fourth try the stripes still don't match up, then leave them alone. (OK, once or twice.) Just food for thought.

The pics of the kilt-in-progress really look quite good, so no matter your decision, this kilt will be a special one, one you will wear proudly.

Kilt on! One stitch at a time...