First attempt...

[Kilted Taper]

OK. As far as the "splits" go, you should put _more_ than half in the apron at the waist, and _less_ than half in the apron at the hips (because everyone's butts stick out behind). So, with your measurements, I'd do the following:

w: 37 1/2
h: 44

splits:

waist: 19 1/2" in the apron; 18" in the pleats
hips: 21 1/2" in the apron; 22 1/2" in the pleats

I was going off memory, so I may actaully have that on my worksheet. I'll check when I get home tonight. If not, I'll make that fix.

23 pleats - your tartan must have a pretty big sett!!

It's an Anderson tartan. If I recall, it's something along the lines of an 8" sett.
Again, going off of memory

each pleat at waist: 1/2 + 1/4 + 1/32 would be spot on

each pleat at hips: 1/2 + 1/4 + 1/8 + 1/16 + 1/32 would be 1/4" too small; 1" would be 1/2" too big.

Sooooo, if you make the pleats at the waist each 3/4" plus 1/32", it'll be perfect. If you leave off the 1/32 and make each pleat exactly 3/4", it will be about 3/4" too small at the waist. So, I'd make each pleat a scosh bigger than 3/4" at the waist. You definitely don't want it too small.

If you make each pleat 1" at the hips, the kilt will be 1/2" too big. For your first kilt, I'd just leave it at that (again, it's better to be a little big than a little small). Just try not to make them bigger than an inch.

Cheers!

Barb

Thanks again Barb. We'll see how far I get tonight!