Hybred kilts......?

[The Wizard of BC]

I don't usually use other parts of this forum to talk about my own kilts but my name was mentioned so I don't think I'll offend anyone.

Blu, Are you dead set on denim for your kilt?

I experimented with a lot of fabrics before chosing the 34 I carry right now and have found Denim to be a terrible fabric for kilts.
1. They are far too stiff. regardless of the amount of fabric used swish is at a minimum.
2. They shrink at different rates warpwise vs weftwise. So there is always puckering at every stitch line.
3. They are a Cotton fabric so always prone to wrinkling. Any Cotton fabric will wrinkle and needs constant ironing.

Is this the kind of kilt you are asking about?



It is my Dress Model made from a 60/40 Poly/Cotton blend in Khaki color.
There are two side slash pockets.

And this is the exact same model of kilt done in the X Marks Tartan. 14oz. Wool.



My Dress Model retains full Traditional Kilt styling with all the Contemporary features I think you are asking for.
They even swish.



I hope this answers your questions. Yes, there is someone out there producing the type of kilt I believe your post was asking for.

[Pleater]

I have used a variety of fabrics for kilts, making them in traditional knife pleats to start with and progressing to Kinguisse style, and then reversing the pleat direction - so something which is probably distinctly my own but never the less very traditional.

A light soft denim might do, but a kilt looks best in a fabric which has some drape, that is it will distort, so it lays flat when pulled diagonally rather than wrinkle. That will give you a good swish and also allow the pleats to lie flat over the curves of the body.

I do not sew the fell, but I do press it in when necessary.

I find that fabrics with a smooth fairly hard surface make pleats which move most freely. I suspect that a needle corduroy might be OK, but anything with a higher nap might not move well, but tend to cling together.

I tend to look for fabrics which are the same warp and weft - (so denim would not qualify there), quite dense, smooth surfaced with drape and some slither - there is probably a more technical term for it but slither is descriptive. It can be a nuisance if trying to machine sew it, but once made up it gives a great feel of opulance as it moves around you.

I started off making fairly small pleats of 5 inches, and have now done an 8 yard kilt with 9 inch pleats - in a jet black lightly peached heavy cotton fabric. I was doubtful about the peaching, but with that as the inside it feels great and moves well.

Some fabrics with a man made fibre content have a slightly fuzzy surface which clings to itself, but they can be improved for kilting with a careful ironing - you need to smooth the surface without making it over polished, so a good iron which controls its temperature quite closely is essential, and you might need to go over it lightly two or three times rather than try to get the effect in one go. If you are doubtful about this just make the kilt up with the fabric as it is, better a bit less swish than a ruined piece of fabric.

Although I am used to making a lot of my own clothes, I have found that making kilts is very satisfying as they seem to be rather more than the sum of their parts, and can thoroughly recommend it.

[Tartan Hiker]

Steve,
Great looking kilts. With the 60/40 do you stitch the pleat edges or just press them?

[turpin]

Alan, at Renegade Kilts, makes a traditional model in solid or camo. I tried on two today at the Loch Hartwell games and was very favorably impressed with the fit and feel. He had a denim kilt there today in the low-rise verion, so he does work with denim. His website says he makes them in Urban twill, Cammo twill, Black, and Navy Blue. He also makes it in digital camo, 'cause that is one of the ones I tried on. The other was solid black. The fell is sewn and the pleat edges are sewn full length. 3-buckle closure. The pleats are even cut out at the waistband. Some of his kilts are 10-oz. cotton canvas and some are heavy 60/40 duck. They start out stiff, but he was wearing one that he'd washed many times and it was very soft and flexible.
He makes them to your measurements. You might give him a look-see.