Adventures in Kilt Making

[JimB]

Hi all!
I just thought I would give an overview of my kilt making experiences up to this point.

I’m a relatively new kiltie, but I am definitely into it. I have an off the rack (at the local Scottish festival) Black Watch kilt that I’m kind of happy with, but as I find out more about kilts, the more I look at this one and see the cheapness in it.

Anyway, I’ve decide that the only way I can afford a decent collection of kilts is to make my own. I’ve always been a “make my own” kind of guy and I figure I can do this although I know I will make a lot a mistakes as I go.

Sooo…I print out as many articles as I can on kilt making, study them well and even send off for Barb’s book. With all of this info I figure I’m ready. I read the instructions on my wife’s sewing machine, learn how to wind a bobbin and thread it, and then I head down to the local fabric store. Here was my first mistake. I wanted to do a nice solid color kilt so that I don’t have to worry about tartans yet. So I get two 5 and ½ yard pieces of fabric. One is black duck canvas and I set that aside for a while. The other, and the one I’m working on now is just the olive color I want and the weight seems good for a casual kilt, so I start right in. I measure...measure and mark and do it all again. Then I start to cut it into two lengthwise pieces. This gives me what…11 yards of fabric. More than enough!! (And I was sweating this) And then I start to sew the front apron and the sewn in pleats. Something’s not quite right. This fabric doesn’t handle like I think it should. Well, lo and behold. It has 10% spandex in it.
Don’t laugh! It makes for a very comfortable fabric but it is very hard to work with. Thankfully it only stretches a little and only in the opposite direction from the pleats. I should be ok.

Well, here I am with the front apron done, the pleats all sewn in and although it is the right size (20 inch waist across the apron and 20 inches in pleats across the waist) it doesn’t fit. Too small. I check my waist to see if I’ve gained weight, and no…it measure 40 so it should fit. Finally it dawns on me to cut out the inner pleats at the waist line. It’s better but still a little tight.
My solution for now is to add 2 more pleats and then finish the inner apron. It sounds like a good plan anyway.

I’ll let you know how all this turns out and I promise I will send pictures when it’s done.
I can’t wait to get started on the black canvas one.
Thanks for listening to my tale

[pdcorlis]

Sounds like you are on track - and the photos will be great. As a general comment, I wish more kilt makers would post some "kilt in progress" photos. I think they would be very informative.

Just me quacking...

[JimB]

I agree. It would be helpful for me if there were more too.
I'll post an as-is photo hopefully tomorrow.

[chasem]

Sounds like you're on the right track! Barb's book is fantastic! That will be about the only resource you need for solid (construction, not colour) kilts. I've made three following it; they only get better as you go on. Keep us updated on your progress!

[Livingston]

At least with the 10% spandex you won't have to worry on those occasions you eat more than your fair share unless you have the belt too tight.

[JimB]

Ok, I have some "in progress" pictures...

Here is the kilt from the right side out:

I've done the outer apron and the pleats. All of the pleats are sewn on the edges to keep their shape.

Here is another view which shows the pleats:

These suckers are DEEP. I have a 3/4 inch reveal and they are 5 inches deep.
I wanted a good swing to it. (see my tagline )

Here is where the inside of the pleats has been cut away and reinforced with a piece of cotton cloth. According to Barb's book this will keep the pleats from stretching.


And another view...


There isn't too much more to go. I need to add 2 more pleats (to adjust the size) and finish the inside apron. The waistband should be easy after all of this.

I hope these pictures help somone.

[JimB]

I'll try to get a little better closeup of #4.

[pdcorlis]

Thanks for the snaps Jim!

[JimB]

Here's a better shot of the cut away material..


You're welcome! I just hope this can help someone. Motivation-wise if nothing else

[Alan H]

Good on ya! Hey, next time, taper the cutaway fabric a bit instead of making such a sudden, rectangular cut-off. You *might* get a bit of a bump right where the thickness increases so suddenly on this kilt.

Then again, maybe not, eh? You'll know when you put it on!

Those deep pleats are IMPRESSIVE!....that's almost the same as if you were working with a ten-inch sett!