Apron edge 'lifting'

**freddie** · 12th October 06, 11:59 AM

I wonder if anybody else has had a problem with the bottom left edge of their kilt apron 'lifting'. I bought a new heavyweight kilt recently and this phenomena is really pronounced. If I run (especially upstairs) in the kilt the first left hand pleat folds outwards causing the apron edge to lift even more. In fact the problem can only be resolved by pinning the apron edge and first pleat together. I do have a belly on me and this could be the cause as my other kilt aprons 'lift' slightly, but not as much as this new one. I thought that maybe it hadn't been pressed properly, but when the kilt is layed out flat there isn't a problem, only when I'm wearing it. I'd love to hear of anyone else's experiences.

**Caradoc** · 12th October 06, 01:13 PM

Originally Posted by freddie

If I run (especially upstairs) in the kilt the first left hand pleat folds outwards causing the apron edge to lift even more.

This sounds like what some kiltmaker call "kicking" the first pleat on the left.

Celtic Craft Centre actually makes a point of saying during their sales pitch that their kilts are invulnerable to this sort of thing. I own one of theirs (weathered Lochaber), and I can say with authority that I've not had this problem.

**freddie** · 12th October 06, 01:37 PM

Yes, I remember visiting their shop on the Royal Mile years ago where one of the kilted shop assistants gave me a demonstration of their kilts, and their unique design. I didn't buy a kilt from them at the time (more's the pity), but I did buy a fantastic pewter clan crest cap badge, the best I've ever seen. They are a fantastic shop and I've often looked for their web site but could never find it.

**The Wizard of BC** · 12th October 06, 04:19 PM

There are two factors that can cause 'kicking' of the left edge of the apron.

The first is taper. Aprons should be tapered. (Larger at the bottom than on the top. This allows the apron edges to gently roll around the sides of the legs and not curl outward.
How much taper there should be is determined by a couple of factors. The 'drape' of the fabric is the largest. Stiffer fabrics require more taper. next is the width of the apron when combined with the size of your thighs. Thick thighs require more taper.

To check the amount of taper in your kilt start at the top of the apron and follow down a single thread. When you get to the hip measure from that thread to the edge of the apron at the hem. This is your taper.
A good rule of thumb (from Barb's Book) is; 1 to 1 1/2 " on each side with 2 1/2" hard to do smoothly.

To check if your taper is sufficiant the kilt must be held in the round not layed flat, so you will need to wear it or hang it on a couple of pants hangers and hold it open.

I work in non-wool fabrics and use around 3" on each side. That is a special case and should not be used as an amount of taper for Wool or PV.

The other factor to 'pleat kicking' is the "deep pleat". The first pleats on each the outer and inner aprons should be almost half as deep as the apron is wide.
For example; if your apron is 17" wide the deep pleat should be somewhere around 6-8" deep. This deep pleat allows enough fabric under the apron for walking, running and bending.

If you determine your kilt has too little taper, a good kiltmaker can increase it with little problem. A skimpy deep pleat however you will have to live with.

There are some more little tricks that a good kiltmaker can use to minimize pleat kick. Post a pic of your kilt and perhaps we can offer further ideas.

**Rampant Lion** · 13th October 06, 07:09 AM

Originally Posted by Caradoc

This sounds like what some kiltmaker call "kicking" the first pleat on the left.

Celtic Craft Centre actually makes a point of saying during their sales pitch that their kilts are invulnerable to this sort of thing. I own one of theirs (weathered Lochaber), and I can say with authority that I've not had this problem.

They're who I bought my one and only kilt from and I totally agree. My first pleat lies completely flat. I didn't even know bout that website, just their old AOL one (it's gonna give me something to do at work ;) ) I'm curious, did you buy from the shoppe in San Fransisco, I heard they may have closed or something.

Edit: Nevermind. I see that they moved to Palm Springs.

**Caradoc** · 13th October 06, 07:19 AM

Originally Posted by Rampant Lion

I'm curious, did you buy from the shoppe in San Fransisco, I heard they may have closed or something.

Edit: Nevermind. I see that they moved to Palm Springs.

Correct. I purchased from them at the Mesa Highland Games on the last day there - got some deals on things, as is the usual for the Games on the last day, and the paperwork shows the Palm Springs address.

**auld argonian** · 13th October 06, 07:53 AM

I have a theory about why aprons lift or don't sit quite right. It has to do with the plane in which it sits on your hips...if the back of the waistband drifts down lower than the front it sort of pushes the bottom of the kilt forward and creates problems with the way the front of the kilt hangs. If you hoist the back of the waistband back up, the aprons straighten out...try it.

Now it could be said that this wouldn't happen if you were wearing a perfectly fitted kilt but, come on...I wish all my suits and shirts were custom made too...how many of us were actually measured by the kilt maker and had the kilt made to perfect order? In many cases we are buying our waist size and hoping for the best or measuring ourselves and forwarding the dimensions to the kilt maker.

Best

AA