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  1. #1
    Join Date
    16th August 06
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    Salt Lake City, UT
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    Ron,
    Be careful with the natural dyes. You're in the right place to check out some of the navajo dye charts that they sell at the trading posts. A lot of things give some suprising colors. Sage may not give you a green that you'd like.
    I'd agree with the suggestion to go with the RIT dyes.
    Tea is an intriquing idea though.

    Just as an aside, I had no problem finding brown hose at the local Scottish shop. The color I'm having trouble finding is grey.
    It don't mean a thing, if you aint got that swing!!
    'S Rioghal Mo Dhream - a child of the mist

  2. #2
    Join Date
    14th September 05
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    Space Coast, FL
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    JimB,

    Try asking for oatmeal, which to me appears grayish, but on the beige side.
    The kilt concealed a blaster strapped to his thigh. Lazarus Long

  3. #3
    Join Date
    2nd October 04
    Location
    Page/Lake Powell, Arizona USA
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    Thanks Jim,

    I have the Navajo Hopi book on dying wool. Looks like the sage comes out sort of a yellow with a greenish tinge. The sage that's so heavy around here is a "Sand Sage" with little tiny leaves, not the broadleaf sage from farther north, or even up in the higher country around here.

    And, Sand Sage isn't in the dye book....could be a wild experiment...

    Ron
    Ol' Macdonald himself, a proud son of Skye and Cape Breton Island
    Lifetime Member STA. Two time winner of Utilikiltarian of the Month.
    "I'll have a kilt please, a nice hand sewn tartan, 16 ounce Strome. Oh, and a sporran on the side, with a strap please."

  4. #4
    Join Date
    3rd January 06
    Location
    Dorset, on the South coast of England
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    Getting the right colour can be a long process, you can change the shade, or sometimes the colour with the pH of the dye bath, also using an iron container often 'saddens' the colour.

    There are some chemicals which will act as a mordant, hanging onto the colour with one 'hand' and the fabric with the other, so keeping the colour fixed on during washing - though it can't help if the dye fades in sunlight. You dissolve the mordant and soak the fabric in it before imersing it in the dye bath.

    You might also need to know the fibre content of the item you are dyeing, particularly if you are using chemical dyes, as some work on plant material such as cotton and some on proteins such as wool, and they often require different mordants and conditions of pH and heat.

    Some things, such as tea or coffee are what I call stains - requiring very little help to colour a fabric, or even skin.

    When dyeing you do need to use a large container in order to get an even take up of the colour. About twice the minimum size for washing cloth of that length and width, because whilst it does not really matter if the suds hit a particular part of the cloth thirty seconds after the rest, it will result in an uneven colour if it is a dye bath, where you are relying on exposing every part of the cloth to the same concentration of dye for the same length of time.

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