-
24th October 06, 08:18 PM
#1
X Marks kilt pin repair question
When I strapped on my BC tartan kilt to have photos taken last week, I found my X Marks kilt pin dangling. Because of the hem on the edge, the pin and clasp were easily found. My question is how I might go about repairing this.
I did take it into our shop at work and asked about either welding or soldering. Apparently neither were terribly successful. Krazy Glue was for about five minutes. Any suggestions, Gents? I'd really like to be able to continue to use it.
Thanks in advance.
-
-
24th October 06, 08:24 PM
#2
Hit both surfaces with a spot of sandpaper and attach with epoxy glue.
Kilted Teacher and Wilderness Ranger and proud member of Clan Donald, USA
Happy patron of Jack of the Wood Celtic Pub and Highland Brewery in beautiful, walkable, and very kilt-friendly Asheville, NC.
New home of Sierra Nevada AND New Belgium breweries!
-
-
24th October 06, 08:49 PM
#3
I have had to repair all 7 of the pins I got. Each one had the studs soldered in a very poor way. Lots of cold solder and lots of soot.
I use soft No.2 Solder from a jewlery and Lapadary shop. It melts as a temp. far lower than the rest of the pin. It is used by silversmiths when they want to attach fastenings and don't want to re-polish the front surface.
Use lots of flux. Use a needle flame butane torch. Place the pin on a heat sink to prevent blistering the varnish on the good side.
I did all seven kilt pins in about an hour and that includes first removing the original solder joint, prepping the surface with sandpaper, and cleaning afterwards.
Steve Ashton
www.freedomkilts.com
Skype (webcam enabled) thewizardofbc
I wear the kilt because: Swish + Swagger = Swoon.
-
-
24th October 06, 09:06 PM
#4
Get the best, strongest two part epoxy you can get. Use that to re-attach the broken (pin) and a small blob to strengthen the othe. Less than $5 and 5 minutes time to fix.
Cheers
-See it there, a white plume
Over the battle - A diamond in the ash
Of the ultimate combustion-My panache
Edmond Rostand
-
-
24th October 06, 09:52 PM
#5
I use a low melting pt. solder and flux that is designed to fuse dissimilar metals. It works great. I also use a small butane torch for the heat source. It is a little expensive >$20 at a welding supply store. O'Neille
-
-
24th October 06, 10:23 PM
#6
Umm,
Should those of us who have good pins still, be strengthening them somehow to avoid this?
Thanks,
Ron
Ol' Macdonald himself, a proud son of Skye and Cape Breton Island
Lifetime Member STA. Two time winner of Utilikiltarian of the Month.
"I'll have a kilt please, a nice hand sewn tartan, 16 ounce Strome. Oh, and a sporran on the side, with a strap please."
-
-
25th October 06, 03:04 AM
#7
Relevant question:
Are the breaking pins from tyhe first batch, the second or both?
The second batch is the one shipped this summer (2006).
-
-
25th October 06, 03:13 AM
#8
I removed both pins, filed and sanded the back of the pin and replaced them with a safety lock pin...2 part metal-epoxy.
-
-
25th October 06, 05:54 AM
#9
I also had 1 loose upon receiving my pin. KCW had stated that there was some problem with them, and would swap, but I used a 2 part Epoxy, and reinforced the other with it as well and I've had no problem so far.
Mark Dockendorf
Left on the Right Coast
-
-
25th October 06, 08:30 AM
#10
 Originally Posted by MacWage
Relevant question:
Are the breaking pins from tyhe first batch, the second or both?
The second batch is the one shipped this summer (2006).
Mine was from the second batch.
-
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|
|
Bookmarks