Sporran making...

**Blu (Ontario)** · 29th October 06, 01:40 PM

Originally Posted by Freelander Sporrano

..... Many will remember this.....

*photo *....

I do.... and ever since I've been waiting for the "SUPER HERO" version Freelander Sporran to hit the streets!

.

**Freelander Sporrano** · 29th October 06, 01:50 PM

Actually the spidermen theme was an accident we didn't look on the other side when we cut it out

...Apologies to BLAZN for the semi jack

**BLAZN** · 29th October 06, 02:33 PM

As long as knowledge is shared, I don't mind thread jacks at all.

As I mentioned earlier, I'm presently making sporran #3. It's coming from the same batch of leather as the first two, for the front and back. I'm planning another leather order soon. I'm going to go with 6/7oz veggie tanned tooling leather... should come out to about 5mm thick.

As for fitting my hand in my sporrans... they're actually pretty roomy. I've had no issues fitting my hams into my sporrans. My gussets don't taper, but they're usually about 2.75" wide when I cut them out. The suede... I think those are 2.5" wide because I only had a 10 wide piece of suede to work with, and the bride unit wanted half of it... I even had to stitch two pieces together to get the right length.

As for finishing the edges... I didn't think about that at all. Perhaps I'll try to dye the edges to get them to blend in.

I'm definately getting good input here... perhaps I'll try my hand at less stiff sporrans, much like Rob Roy sporrans or like the Freelander.

OH... and anyone know how to work fur into the mix? What sort of gue would I use to bond fur to cowhide leather?

**TheSp8** · 30th October 06, 10:59 AM

Originally Posted by BLAZN

OH... and anyone know how to work fur into the mix? What sort of gue would I use to bond fur to cowhide leather?

Use hide glue. I don't have any of my sources handy but it can be bought in crystal form from traditional archery supply stores. Bow builders use it to glue snake skins to raw hide for backing bows.

YMOS,
Tony

**Tartan Hiker** · 30th October 06, 06:37 PM

Originally Posted by BLAZN

OH... and anyone know how to work fur into the mix? What sort of gue would I use to bond fur to cowhide leather?

Contact cement works well and remains flexible. You may have to apply two coats to each piece as it will soak in a bit, then wait until both are dry to the touch and bond them together. Get them lined up just right as you'll only get one chance!

Also, when folding over your flap you'll need to gouge a v-groove on the inside where you want the fold. If you don't have a gouge, use a very sharp knife or razor edge and a metal straight edge. If you've never made a 45 degree cut like this practice on some scrap material first!

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Don't go beyond half-way through the leather. This is the advantage of using thick material! Be sure to wet the groove before you try to bend it over, and then be sure to oil with neatsfoot or equivalent to soften it long-term.

Bill

**Tartan Hiker** · 30th October 06, 06:48 PM

With leather that thick I would think that this sporran would really protect "the nether regions"!

(Check this thread if you don't remember this discussion:
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=20894

**bunchdescendant** · 30th October 06, 08:27 PM

OK boys and girls-

Straight out of the Tandy Leather catalog:

Each Ounce of weight is equal to 1/64" (slightly over 0.4 mm) in thickness.

Just thought some of you might want to know.

BTW, Bison (Buffalo) is very easy to work and tough as nails.

Ray

**BLAZN** · 30th October 06, 09:20 PM

Originally Posted by bunchdescendant

OK boys and girls-

Straight out of the Tandy Leather catalog:

Each Ounce of weight is equal to 1/64" (slightly over 0.4 mm) in thickness.

That would put what I used right at 10 ounces. Dropping down to about a 6 or 7 ounce leather would put me at 3mm. Assuming I stick with tooling leather, that should be thick enough for the look I'm after.

Later on, I'll try my hand at a Rob Roy or Freelander style sporran.

**turpin** · 29th October 06, 05:01 PM

What a timely thread. I just bought some very nice leather and a prime skunk pelt. Now I need to do some large thinking about design and assembly. Glad this thread came up so I can benefit from the knowledge base. Of course, when I get going I'll be asking for mare help from all, I'm sure.

**Brasilikilt** · 30th October 06, 09:24 AM

Here's something I haven't seen being mentioned

I found that if you're working with such thick leather, it's MUCH easier to work with if you dampen it with a sponge or rag it ends up much more pliable and easy to punch holes through.
Also when it dries, it tends to take on the shape of whatever you make as opposed to wanting to flatten out again.

My last attempt at a sporran ended up looking like a small bag to use with a muzzle loader.

Keep it up