Sporran making...

[Tartan Hiker]

OH... and anyone know how to work fur into the mix? What sort of gue would I use to bond fur to cowhide leather?

Contact cement works well and remains flexible. You may have to apply two coats to each piece as it will soak in a bit, then wait until both are dry to the touch and bond them together. Get them lined up just right as you'll only get one chance!

Also, when folding over your flap you'll need to gouge a v-groove on the inside where you want the fold. If you don't have a gouge, use a very sharp knife or razor edge and a metal straight edge. If you've never made a 45 degree cut like this practice on some scrap material first!


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Don't go beyond half-way through the leather. This is the advantage of using thick material! Be sure to wet the groove before you try to bend it over, and then be sure to oil with neatsfoot or equivalent to soften it long-term.

Bill

[Tartan Hiker]

With leather that thick I would think that this sporran would really protect "the nether regions"!

(Check this thread if you don't remember this discussion:
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=20894

[bunchdescendant]

OK boys and girls-

Straight out of the Tandy Leather catalog:

Each Ounce of weight is equal to 1/64" (slightly over 0.4 mm) in thickness.

Just thought some of you might want to know.

BTW, Bison (Buffalo) is very easy to work and tough as nails.

Ray

[BLAZN]

OK boys and girls-

Straight out of the Tandy Leather catalog:

Each Ounce of weight is equal to 1/64" (slightly over 0.4 mm) in thickness.

That would put what I used right at 10 ounces. Dropping down to about a 6 or 7 ounce leather would put me at 3mm. Assuming I stick with tooling leather, that should be thick enough for the look I'm after.

Later on, I'll try my hand at a Rob Roy or Freelander style sporran.