-
15th November 06, 07:14 PM
#1
ironing/steaming box pleats
From what i read doing some searching this is a pain in the butt. what i didn't find was how to do it. Is there a correct way to iron box pleats?
I don't have to do this yet (but i am still learning how to sit ). But it would be nice to know how.
-
-
15th November 06, 07:56 PM
#2
I have not done it either, but with a large work surface and a little patience, no reason it should be any harder than ironing knife pleats. Lay the kilt out flat, preferably so you can iron everything at once, straighten/aline the pleats on their creases/seams, press, then hang the kilt up. No problems. Possibly turn ot over and do the underside as well, but I never have with my knife pleated ones.
The kilt concealed a blaster strapped to his thigh. Lazarus Long
-
-
15th November 06, 09:36 PM
#3
I have many box-pleated kilts and find them much easier to iron than knife-pleated kilts. When you lay the kilt on the table the pleats seem to just naturally fall in place. They don't curl outward either. The method of ironing is basically the same.
Is mise le meas,
Seán Liosliath Ó hAirt
[B][COLOR="DarkGreen"]John Hart[/COLOR]
Owner/Kiltmaker - Keltoi
-
-
15th November 06, 11:29 PM
#4
Some tips on pressing Wool kilts -----
1) Press, don't iron. Do not use a sliding motion. Place the iron down and them lean your weight on it. Then lift the iron up and place it down on the next section.
2) Always, always use a pressing cloth. You can use a pillow case or any thing similar. This will prevent the "shinies" on the surface of the fabric.
3) Use a slightly damp pressing cloth. The moisture in the cloth will provide the steam. It is the heat of the iron, combined with the steam, combined with the pressure which does the work. Using your iron on a high enough temp. to produce steam on most home irons is too high a temp.
4) Allow the fabric to cool before moving it. If you move the fabric while still hot the crease will just fall out again. This is also why you use very little steam. As steam cools it condenses and leaves water, very hot water, on the fabric and this water takes a long time to cool. So use as little steam as necessary to push the heat into the fabric and let it cool till it is not even warm under your hand.
5) Always baste your pleats. Always baste your pleats. Always baste your pleats. Getting the hint. It only takes a couple of minutes with a needle and basting thread to secure the pleats in postion. This insures nothing can become misaligned when you place the ironing cloth over the pleats and you can't see them anymore.
6) Use the proper pressing surface. Something hard, but with a soft cover. a sheet of plywood covered with a terry bath towel is perfect. A home ironing board is bad as it is not large enough to take the majority of the kilt at one time and the part hanging over the edges will distort the part your trying to press with it's weight.
This type of surface will also not hold the heat allowing the pleats to cool faster.
The surface also needs to be able to support your weight as you lean on the iron to get the proper pressing weight.
7) Insure you prop up the Fell area of the kilt. The fell is tapered and the pleats are not so the kilt cannot lay all the way flat. I use a small pillow from the couch to place under the Fell and hold it up slightly insuring the pleats can lay perfectly flat and not have the Fell area placing stress on the pleat area.
The first time you press a kilt it seems like a lot of work and is rather daunting. But as you should not have to press your kilt very often you will find the added time and effort to make the job perfect well worth it.
Steve Ashton
www.freedomkilts.com
Skype (webcam enabled) thewizardofbc
I wear the kilt because: Swish + Swagger = Swoon.
-
-
15th November 06, 11:39 PM
#5
Thanks Steve,
Hope your post makes the care and maintenance section. Lots of stuff I'd never have thunk
Ron
Still a Gizmo driver
Ol' Macdonald himself, a proud son of Skye and Cape Breton Island
Lifetime Member STA. Two time winner of Utilikiltarian of the Month.
"I'll have a kilt please, a nice hand sewn tartan, 16 ounce Strome. Oh, and a sporran on the side, with a strap please."
-
-
16th November 06, 12:00 AM
#6
Some very good tips Steve-many thanks for that
-
-
16th November 06, 05:40 AM
#7
Raphael is the proud owner of one of my box pleated kilts, Paisley tartan, made from 16 oz Lochcarron Strome cloth.
Based on my own experience of owning several kilts you should not have to repress these pleats very often at all. That's one of the big advantages of the heavy weight kilting wool.
But if you do decide to give them a touch up, you've already got the pleat lines there to go by. Just lay the kilt out on your ironing board so that the pleats lie parrallell to the board (you'll be able to work on a few pleats at a time). Make sure the pleat is lying straight and even, and then run your iron (set to the wool setting, medium or high steam), and press the pleat, like Steve directed.
I would reccomend doing both the inside and the outside of the pleats. I've notices that if you just do one side the pleats have a tendency to curl up.
But so long as you remember to smooth the pleats out beneath you when you sit, this is a chore you should rarely have to do!
Enjoy the kilt!
Matt
-
-
16th November 06, 09:15 AM
#8
Thanks for the info, guys.
-
-
16th November 06, 11:45 AM
#9
I also think that Steve's excellent post should be sent over to CARE AND MAINTENANCE.
Bill
Kilted Teacher and Wilderness Ranger and proud member of Clan Donald, USA
Happy patron of Jack of the Wood Celtic Pub and Highland Brewery in beautiful, walkable, and very kilt-friendly Asheville, NC.
New home of Sierra Nevada AND New Belgium breweries!
-
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|
|
Bookmarks