Assuming that my pics, as bad as they are, are better than paragraphs of words...
Here is Weathered Ferguson 16 oz in the beginning of box pleat layout. Note that this 8 1/4 inch sett does "pleat to the sett."
The pleat stitching is accomplished in almost the same manner as for a knife pleat, the exception being not to fold in the next pleat first and catch it in the stiching.
What to do with the overlap produced by the tapering on the inside of the kilt? The answer is, Nothing. Overlap it either direction; baste it in place; catch the tops of the pleats at the waist into the waistband so they don't go anywhere. The little "strips" of 5 fabric-thicknesses are not bulky or noticeable.
A box pleat kilt is a symmetrical garment. The "deep pleat" under each apron is simply an extended box on each hip.
I started with 4 yards of double width material, and only used half of it (4 yards of single width) to construct this kilt. That means I could make another one exactly like the first one; or, two for the price of one 8-yard tank. It "looks" very clean. I've never had anyone mistake it for anything other than a kilt. Its lighter weight is perfect for our mild climates, but the 16 oz cloth is heavy enough on its own to prevent fly-away.
Hopefully, this answers a few of the questions asked above.
w2f
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