He'p me! Sewing machine advice

[thescot]

I don't know beans about sewing machines, but I've been thinking of getting one soon, so I want to thank the KId for brining this up. I didn't have enough sense to ask the guys here.

I'm off to find one of those rascals listed above.

[sjrapid]

I like the Husqvarna/Viking machines also...can. For home use, make sure it can do a blind hem and variable zig-zag.

I agree with this.

Blind hem is what I mean by overlocking.

Also look for a *big* arm that you can get lots of material though - think how big a 9-yard 16-oz kilt is when you're trying to bar-tack belt loops to it.

Best regards

[Paul Henry]

Blind hemming and overlocking are 2 entirely different things, at least in the UK.. I certainly wouldn't fancy a kilt edge being overlocked!!

[The Wizard of BC]

I am a huge fan of older (pre 70's) machines.

Brother and Husvarna changed their machines in the '80's to better suit the home quilting market by making their machines lighter, and of plastic and pot metal instead of forged metal. This is perfect for the person sewing thru two or three layers of very light fabric, at home, on an occasional basis.

For the needs of kiltmaking, and especially Contemporary kilts, you many times need the torque and ability to lift the presser foot over 1.2". The newer machines can't do this.

OK, I use heavy industrial Pfaffs but then my machines are running 8 hours a day, 5-6 days a week. They also need to lift the presser foot a full 3/4" in need the torque to punch thru 14-18 layers of heavy fabric.

Visit your local sewing machine center and talk to the folks there. Take along a kilt of the style and weight you want to make. Most of these shops will have a dozen used machines that will do a good job and cost under $250.00.

Then look for a machine that does straight and the widest zig-zag you can find. 6-8mm That can have the pressure foot raised to AT LEAST 1/2". And most importantly find one mounted in a table. That extra flat surface to lay out and support all that fabric makes all the differance. You don't need the free arm unless your planning on doing sleeves so don't bother. Having a large flat surface is much more important.

My machines all have 4 ft x 4ft extensions bolted to the normal table and what a differance having that table makes.

[Gaian]

I'd recommend the ilder Kenmore's. There are plenty of them around from the 70's that you can get a good deal on them. Heavy duty solid metal construction. The Viking Husqvarna are also great but will cost you more. Buying a good used machine is a low cost option as well as recycling.

[The Wizard of BC]

A view of one of the work stations at Freedom Kilts.
Note that the entire kilt can be layed out and supported by the table extension.





Here is what I'm talking about where the pressure foot is raised and can have a full 1/2" of fabric fit under it. Not all machines can have this modification.

[Kid Cossack]

Steve: Thanks so much for the pics and the advice! I'm pretty sure your industrial models would exceed any need I might have, but I really appreciate the info.

[O'Neille]

Yep, the high lift is great to have especially when you are trying to sew a blanket. O'Neille

[bunchdescendant]

I use a Rex industrial for the big stuff, it will take 2 layers of thick work belt leather and sew it like it's not there.

I did my first canvas kilt with the wife's Singer Fashion Mate that must be 35+ years old. I had no trouble with power on 10-11 oz. canvas.

Make sure that you choose one that's pretty beefy. Some new machines for quilting can be carried with 1 finger due to a mostly plastic construction.

I bought the wife a Singer 3116 from WallyMart. It wasn't too expensive and seems to be very sturdy.

A agree about having a large table area to work on-an 8 yard canvac kilt is pretty heavy and tries to run off the table at every chance!

Ray

[JimB]

Steve,
Your pics showing the kilt pleats held together with safety pins is a huge tip in itself!!
I'm going to be getting a big box of them this weekend.