Phillabeg, Feilidh-beag, or "Little Kilt"

[Phicong]

I have decided to make a Phillabeg, Feilidh-beag, or "Little Kilt" or what ever you want to call it. I have looked all over and found almost no information on how to self fold the pleats or how they are sewed in with the overlap of the tartan above the belt line.
Does this type of kilt have inner and outer aprons like the standard kilts?
Does anyone have one of these kilts that would be willing to share the above information with me?
Appreciate any replies.

Gordon of Clan MacHardy origin

[MacWage]

These may be of some help:
http://www.kilts-n-stuff.com/Kilts/phillabegs.html
(there was a link to how to foldit somewhere on the site)

Article by Matt Newsome in "The Scottish Banner"
September 2006 -- The Evolution of the Kilt -- Part II: The Feilidh-beag
(link on his own site is not yet active)

The problem is, like for the belted plaid/great kilt, there are no contemporary accounts as to how it was put together. Only pictures survive as all but a VERY few (of the early tailored type) were converted into something else or disposed of when they got old.
I'd contact/call Matt Newsome at the Scottish Tartan Museum in Franklin, North Carolina and get advise from him on the matter. Few know more on the topic that he does.

[Woodsheal]

Consider also this article. The thinking is, that since the belted plaid ("great kilt") most likely had a drawstring to facilitate its use, so too did the earliest philabegs have a drawstring in the waist:

http://www.tartansauthority.com/Web/...eltedplaid.asp

Here's an image from ca. 1780 which shows no careful pleating as we now know it, and apparently not much of an overlap of the "aprons":

http://www.marariley.net/celtic/images/stockings.JPG

[PiobBear]

I have decided to make a Phillabeg, Feilidh-beag, or "Little Kilt" or what ever you want to call it. I have looked all over and found almost no information on how to self fold the pleats or how they are sewed in with the overlap of the tartan above the belt line. Does this type of kilt have inner and outer aprons like the standard kilts?
Does anyone have one of these kilts that would be willing to share the above information with me?

It's pleated (as near as anyone today knows) just like a feilidh mhor; I lay it out across the bed, leaving three hand's lengths (for me, about 18") for the inner apron, then start pulling pleats until I have another three hand's lengths for the outer apron. Slide my belt underneath, lay down, pull the right apron over to the left, the left apron over to the right, fasten my belt snugly and stand up; pulling and tugging at it until my aprons are smooth and the hem breaks at the knee. Almost takes less time to do it than to tell about it.

Why do you want a feilidh beg? If you've a nice piece of cloth, why not make a modern kilt? Looks much better, is much more versatile (at least from a sartorial point of view) and is much easier to put on.

[The Wizard of BC]

The Phillabeg or "Little Kilt" is the modern version.

This is the kilt you see on members of Pipe Bands.

I'm as confused as the rest of us when your say "Does this type of kilt have the inner and outer aprons like a 'Standard Kilt.'". It is a standard kilt.

If what you are trying to describe is the kilt that you see worn by Pipe Bands then the definative work on how to make one is "The Art of Kiltmaking" By our own Barb Tewksbury. This book is available at your local library but I suggest you check www.celticdragonpress.com and buy your own copy. Not just well worth the money, this book is a 'must have' for anyone thinking about making their own kilt.

[Woodsheal]

Steve,
Quite often,when someone uses the term "phillabeg" they're referring to the early, 18th C. version - usually for re-enacting purposes. I agree: our modern kilts are indeed "phillabegs", but they're somewhat different than the ones of 250 years ago....

[The Wizard of BC]

I will let other psudo historians and members of SCA argue and debate those points.

[Woodsheal]

I will let other psudo historians and members of SCA argue and debate those points.

Well, this "psudo" historian has a Masters Degree in the discipline! Do you have something against recreating the past within the "living history" and re-enactment hobbies, and the folks therein who strive to have their period garb and kit as historically accurate as possible?

Now, one could talk about modern pseudo-kilts as well, couldn't one...?

[Phicong]

The directions which PIOBBEAR provided are what I was looking for. I was not searching for information about a generic modern or traditional kilt but rather the old model Feilidh-beag which was folded each wearing by the wearer. According to Celtic Croft, they also make the Feilidh-beag with sewn in pleats. I would love some pics to see how this is done exactly, especially the waist band and the concealed buckles.
I thank everyone who replied to my request. To answer those who wonder why I want an old model Feilidh-beag, it is probably for the same reason that I fly paragliders, because I want to.

Gordon of Clan MacHardy origin

[M. A. C. Newsome]

The Gaelic term feilidh-beag (often Anglicized as "phillabeg") simply means "little wrap."

A lot of people use it to mean the modern day kilt, and this is one correct usage of the term.

However, myself, and others who are concerned with the history of the kilt and its development, use the term slightly differently.

I use the term feilidh-mor to refer to the large belted plaid (double width), worn from the late 16th through to the latter 18th centuries.

I use the term feilidh-beag to refer to the untailored lower portion of the belted plaid (single width), worn from the early 18th century (some might say earlier) to the end of the 18th century.

I use the term "kilt" to refer to the modern tailored kilt, worn from the 1790s on to today, in various styles of pleating.

I find that those who deal with historical and well as modern kilts will use the term feilidh-beag in this more limited sense, while those whose concern for the kilt is mostly modern will use the term more broadly.

Neither are wrong. It just helps to specifiy just what you mean in a large public forum such as this one.

Matt