Making a 4-yard, Box Pleat in the California Tartan:an ongoing thread

[way2fractious]

Those who make lots of kilts rip the wool tartan for two good reasons: 1) it gets the job done quickly, without having to pull a couple more threads and pick up lots of little thread bits, and 2) it produces the straight line with built-in ravel-resistance mentioned earlier. I've cut both 13 oz and 16 oz, and ripped both weights of wool also. Ripping is generally preferable; cutting is perfectly acceptable.

Fabrics other than wool are cut. Most do not rip easily. Even cotton broadcloth, which does rip, leaves a curled edge which needs to be ironed flat again.

[Eujeankilt]

I just read about ripping wool fabric in Barb's book this past weekend. Could someone explain the technique? Do you just grab it and pull or do you hold down the stationary edge and pull straight back? I'm trying to picture it, having never seen it done before.

(Obviously, I'm considering making a wool, tartan kilt and inquiring minds want to know)

Thanks in advance,

Dale

[way2fractious]

I just read about ripping wool fabric in Barb's book this past weekend. Could someone explain the technique?

After measuring twice (or three times, with a lunch break between ) from the selvedge to the rip line, add two or three threads and make a cut of two or three inches. Pick the tartan up and hold it out in front of you so that it drapes down, with one hand on each side of the cut. In a quick motion, tear it downward for about two feet, trying to keep an even tension on both sides. Repeat the process until you reach a couple inches from the end (should take 5 or 6 times for four yards of tartan.) Cut the last couple inches to prevent those threads from pulling out funny.

Try it on some pieces of cotton first to get the feel of it. It really is fun.

[Eujeankilt]

After measuring twice (or three times, with a lunch break between ) from the selvedge to the rip line, add two or three threads and make a cut of two or three inches. Pick the tartan up and hold it out in front of you so that it drapes down, with one hand on each side of the cut. In a quick motion, tear it downward for about two feet, trying to keep an even tension on both sides. Repeat the process until you reach a couple inches from the end (should take 5 or 6 times for four yards of tartan.) Cut the last couple inches to prevent those threads from pulling out funny.

Try it on some pieces of cotton first to get the feel of it. It really is fun.

Thanks, and I understand about measuring three times. Hopefully, fabric isn't as bad as wood - wood always shrinks or swells AFTER I measure it

Dale

[HeathBar]

The F&K 16oz I used in my first kilt, I ripped it. Yes the burn smell is intoxicating. I think I did quick short bursts. I didn't notice any pulling of threads. I just made sure I had a good grip right at the edge of the split.
I've cut material that length before and it just seemed like it took forever.

Grip it and Rip it

Oh and way to go on this kilt Alan. You are an inspiration.

[Alan H]

OK, I put in 1.75 hours today.

Pre-ironed in the box pleats and the reverse pleat...

Cut out the canvas waistband reinforcement strip, locked down the eges.

Aligned all the pleat overlaps at the waist and pinned the canvas strip in along the waistband in the back.

Stitched the canvas strip in, and stitched down the very tops of the pleats.

Cut out two strips of hair canvas (I'm out, now!) and locked down the edges.
Stitched in teh hair canvas, inside the over-apron and under-apron.

Put it on again and stared at myself in front of the full length mirror. It looks good. I'm glad I got this stuff and not the 8 ounce super-lightweight stuff from Sportkilt.

TOTAL: 8.75

[ccga3359]

Alan is this kilt based on the x-kilt?

[Alan H]

Alan is this kilt based on the x-kilt?

No, though having made X-Kilts is coming in handy in terms of understanding the process. I've made this kilt differently from an X-Kilt. The two big differences are that the pleats aren't topstitched in the fell in this kilt, and the apron on this kilt is full width. The apron on an X-Kilt is 8-9-10 inches.

I think that making an X-Kilt is good preparation/education for stitching up any kilt, but it would be super preparation for stitching up a box-pleat tartan kilt out of PV.

Who's gonna be the first one to try one???

[ccga3359]

No, though having made X-Kilts is coming in handy in terms of understanding the process. I've made this kilt differently from an X-Kilt. The two big differences are that the pleats aren't topstitched in the fell in this kilt, and the apron on this kilt is full width. The apron on an X-Kilt is 8-9-10 inches.

I think that making an X-Kilt is good preparation/education for stitching up any kilt, but it would be super preparation for stitching up a box-pleat tartan kilt out of PV.

Who's gonna be the first one to try one???

Well I'm just waiting for my digi camo fabric to show up and bang out my first xkilt. I can't wait, and thank you.

[Alan H]

Well I'm just waiting for my digi camo fabric to show up and bang out my first xkilt. I can't wait, and thank you.

good luck, have fun, and make sure to let us see it when you're done!