Kiltmakers in Edinburgh, questions . . .

[arrogcow]

Another option I came across, I have emailed them twice in 2 days an no response. has anyone bought from them before?

Thanks again for all the wonderful advice!

Cheers,

Kerry

Well the Kilt Store listed at the very top of the page (advertiser) is part of the scotwebstore group, and they give a discount to X-markers. However, I don't know if they have an actual location, as they seem to sell other's stuff (their traditional kilts are made by Balmoral for instance).

Others here have had many good dealings with them. OTOH, I have had words with them here about their less than forthcoming pricing on the web.

Adam

[Tartan Hiker]

1) They guarantee no "pleat kicking" on their kilts. The first pleat to the left of the apron is tailored to avoid that.

I'd like to see how that is done.

[McClef]

When mine arrives I will take photos to try and show how.

[Jaggy thistle]

I have 4 kilts all hand made by far the best one was made by Geofrey(Tailor)though from their Glasgow shop service and delivery were very good

Tam .

[Nanook]

As far as the kilt assembly line, many kiltmakers, including Geoffrey (Tailor) were part of a couple of articles I read a few years ago about the new way even traditional kilts were made and how they were using more assembly line manufacturing and less artisans.

This is nothing new but has been the common practice among the best established tailors for some time. The world's finest bespoke tailors in the U.S., Germany, Italy and the UK have been using "assembly line" techniques for a very long time. This is what defined Saville Row. No longer was clothing designed and made for a patron but there were patterns and the work was divided among skilled and specialized workers: cutters, tailors, seamstresses, finishers etc. The difference between an "artisan suit" and a "mass produced suit" is less about the division of labour but about the skill of the professionals and the tilt in the balance between technique, materials and rationality. Its what you don't see that separates a fine suit from a "less fine" suit. Using machines or dividing the process into rational steps is no sin but a logical consequence of the cost of labour and the need to compete. I recall seeing an old price list among my father's things for bespoke clothing. The shop--- albeit probably one of the finest and most exclusive tailors in the Western Hemisphere at the time--- charged for a pair of bespoke pants in the mid 1950s more than $100 USD (or what amounted to many Americans as a few months rent in a reasonable flat). The amount seems even more extraordinary when one considers that there were no (silly) Super 180s or Super 200s to run the price tag into obscenity. The materials were quite strong traditional "English" weaves. Today even H.Huntsman typically asks less than 2000 GBP. for a suit--- under what Kiton charges for "ready-to-wear". Its all "assembly line" and even bits are done, as I've pointed out elsewhere, with machines.
In kilt making there is a large potential for production (but not quality) rationalization. Look at, for instance, what Argyll Bagpipes and Kilts Ltd have adopted inclusive of ISO 9000.

[viator]

I have a beaut of a kilt (8yd 16oz, hand stitched) provided to me by Tyneside Tartans. Not located in Edinburgh proper, but in Haddington, East Lothian. Just another name to throw into the mix ;)

[Doomsday]

Geoffrey (Tailor), I have an eight yard wool kilt made by them. It is very high quality, fits like... well,... a kilt.

[freddie]

Another one onThe Royal Mile is Nicholson's. However these shops are very expensive and if you want a really good kiltmaker at reasonable prices go out of the city to South Queensferry and check out Clan Albanach.

[Nervous Jock]

I've read this thread with interest.

I currently wear a kilt made by Geoffrey (Tailor).Its in Ancient Dress Gordon which was woven to order and I've had it for about 9 years. This kilt has taken serious abuse.

I have another kilt which I'll talk about in a moment. hoverver the ADG kilt was always intended to be kept for occassions (weddings etc) and the other kilt for drinking!!

Over the years I've filled out a little and as the ADG kilt was larger I started wearing this more and I got to more or less the end hole of the straps. At this point I noticed a lot of the stitching across the seat of the kilt on the pleats was showing, either because the thread had stretched or wasn't tight when manufactured, or the material was giving way. This hasn't been a major issue at the tartan is very light however on a darker kilt it wouldn't look good (appreciate a darker thread might be used!) In addition the leather straps seem to be sewn onto the tartan itself, not through the tartan and backing in the waist band this has meant the tartan has been badly distorted around the waist.

I'm also getting quite a few holes through the knife edges in the pleats

Ok this is partly my fault however I'd have expected the kilt to be a wee bit more robust.

My other kilt was a black watch kilt made by Hector Russell, this about 19 years old. It was intended to be worn with black watch uniform and I did this on a number of occassions. The only problem with this was the tartan wasnt set correctly (i.e. the vertical stripes were about 3 inches out when the kilt was on). Other than that the kilt has lasted very well. no stretching across the seat and little distortion on the tartan waist band (this should have been a bigger problem with this kilt as its about 2 inches smaller round the waist) fortunately I'm just about back down to that size again and can wear it again.

The bottom line on this is would I reccomend Geoffrey (Tailor ) NO
Hector Russell YES.

[scottishstore]

I really just needed to correct some information about Pride of Scotland. I know for a fact that most are now confused by the name Pride of Scotland due to someone opening up a shop on Princes Street in the same name. As far as I understand it: McCalls is the people that own the tartan called Pride of Scotland. It is strictly theirs and a retailer needs a license from them in order to retail their kilts. The Pride of Scotland is a beautiful tartan made by McCalls. Now, a shop opened using that name on their sign but they do not sell this tartan and is maybe retailing something else in the same purple colour theme.....but it is NOT the real Pride of Scotland tartan.

I also wanted to add to what Hamish has said....Hamish is correct in saying that John Morrison the kiltmaker was located on the Royal Mile. That shop closed years ago and was left empty. The Singh family, aka Gold Bros. aka, Heritage of Scotland has leased that location and calls it Heritage of Scotland. Then they took down the name of one of their smaller shops on the Royal Mile and put up a sign that calls that one "John Morrisons kiltmakers". So, the John Morrisons that was on the Royal Mile is leased by the Singh Family aka Gold Bros, Aka Heritage of Scotland with a sign that above calling it Heritage of Scotland. This is not the same as Heritage Scotland, the Scottish jacobite shirt company. The company called Heritage Scotland has been around long before the closed John Morrisons shop was leased to Gold Bros. aka Singh aka. Heritage Scotland does not have the word "of" in their name. A bit confusing but I take it there must be a reason why this would be confusing, unintended I believe....because why would someone want to confuse people


McCalls, the really good kiltmakers has now moved location this year and (someone) else is likely to move into their old location. There is also a purple tartan on the royal mile that is NOT Pride of Scotland. Again, I am sure this was not done on purpose because that would be wrong.