Knife-pleat tapering info

[Phicong]

I have , and still have problems with making a nice looking knife pleat taper from waist to fell. Could someone please provide a couple of close up photos of how the pleat is narrowed from the fell to the waist. I have read everythign I can and have several books but it appears everyone else in the world understands BUT me. Please do not ask me to experiment as I already have tried to pin it up before sewing and it looks like hell as well as not very tapered to boot. Please note that I was carefully taught as a child that if at first you don't succede, let someone competent do the task. It is for this reason, I need to see clearly how to accompolish this task. For this reason, I MUST know in advance how to do something before I can do it.
Appreciate any help.
Gordon

[way2fractious]

Let me suggest that you first acquire a book titled The Art of Kiltmaking. Order it online from Celtic Dragon Press. It has the instructions, complete with pictures, on how to construct a traditional wool kilt.

Good luck and have fun.

[Doomsday]

Something I need to work on myself.

[Kilted KT]

Steps to a perfect knife pleat..

1. Purchase bottle of favorite single malt.
2. Retrieve phone number of favorite kiltmaker
3. Open bottle of single malt. Pour a dram or two.
4. Extend index digit to telephone and dial kiltmaker
5. Transfer sum of currency to kiltmaker for desired kilt
6. Enjoy single malt after your victorious conquest of the pleats!

[The Wizard of BC]

Are you working on Tartan or solid?

Are you sewing down the edge of the pleats?

Do you want a Traditional Pleat Taper or a Contemporary Taper?

[Barb T]

Please note that I was carefully taught as a child that if at first you don't succede, let someone competent do the task.

Every family has a mantra! My dad's mantra was, "Some other idiot had to learn how to do this, so I should be able to!"

Barb

[The Wizard of BC]

Gordon,

You sent me an e-mail asking for further instructions on tapering.
Here it is.
I'm assuming you are making a Contemporary Style or solid colored kilt.

Determining taper is just arithmetic.

For example if your kilt is;

42" Hip
37" Waist
16" Apron
1" Pleat Reveal

Then the pleated area in the back will be;

at the hips 42" - 16" = 26"
at the waist, 37" - 16" = 21"

At the hip = 26" and your pleats are 1" then = 26 pleats

But at the waist the measurement is 21" but still 26 pleats.

So, 21 / 26 = each pleat is .8076" at the waist. or converted to approx. 13/16"

Here is a kilt pleated and Steeked.


There are two basic methods of laying out pleats. I'll call them the Traditional and Contemporary methods just for clarity.

Here is the Traditional method


You find the center of each pleat and mark 1/2 of you taper on each side of center. 1/2 of 13/16" = 13/32". The total width of the pleat is still 13/16"

This method is what is used for Tartans. It will result in the pattern being centered in each pleat and the curve of the Fell will be an arc of a circle.

Here is the Contemporary method.


Note that in this method the edge of each pleat is a straight line. This is because most contemporary Kilts have the edges topstitched and it's much easier to do that on a straight line. Not impossible to do it with the Trad. Method but finicky.

Here is the tapering in the sewing machine.


Note that I use a ruler to lay out the width of the pleat at the waist and then a tapering jig to mark a slightly curved line from the Steeking line to the waist. This gives a very nice shape to the Fell area.
In the picture you can see one pleat finished and the next with the mark for the next sewing line.

Practice till you can mark and sew to the standard of at least 1/32". If you don't the entire waist measurement can be off 1/32" x 26 pleats = .8125 or 13/32" If you are off by 1/16" then you throw the waist off by 1 5/8" Not good.

The fault with the Contemporary method is that when you do all the tapering from one straight edge the curve formed by the Steeking line tends to become more of a french curve. Not a lot and I find it is not noticable on most kilts. But I never use the Contemporary method on Tartan.

Here is the finished taper.


Does this answer your question?

[The Wizard of BC]

Barb, my fathers Motto was "I buy you books and buy you books and all you do is chew on the covers. Just quit your crying and go figure it out."

[ScottInNewHampshire]

Steve - That was an awesome and generous post.

You've got to love how nice and helpful forum members are here at X-Marks the Scot. Good for you. Thanks (I'm inspired to go and do a good turn myself . . . what to do, what to do . . .)

[Phicong]

Steve,
You are surely a Gentleman and a Scholar in the truest sense of the words. A Gentleman for being so kind to take the time and effort provide a fine presentation and a Scholar for being able to make this presentation in such a manner as to be completely understandable. Thanks again.
Gordon