Gordon,

You sent me an e-mail asking for further instructions on tapering.
Here it is.
I'm assuming you are making a Contemporary Style or solid colored kilt.

Determining taper is just arithmetic.

For example if your kilt is;

42" Hip
37" Waist
16" Apron
1" Pleat Reveal

Then the pleated area in the back will be;

at the hips 42" - 16" = 26"
at the waist, 37" - 16" = 21"

At the hip = 26" and your pleats are 1" then = 26 pleats

But at the waist the measurement is 21" but still 26 pleats.

So, 21 / 26 = each pleat is .8076" at the waist. or converted to approx. 13/16"

Here is a kilt pleated and Steeked.


There are two basic methods of laying out pleats. I'll call them the Traditional and Contemporary methods just for clarity.

Here is the Traditional method


You find the center of each pleat and mark 1/2 of you taper on each side of center. 1/2 of 13/16" = 13/32". The total width of the pleat is still 13/16"

This method is what is used for Tartans. It will result in the pattern being centered in each pleat and the curve of the Fell will be an arc of a circle.

Here is the Contemporary method.


Note that in this method the edge of each pleat is a straight line. This is because most contemporary Kilts have the edges topstitched and it's much easier to do that on a straight line. Not impossible to do it with the Trad. Method but finicky.

Here is the tapering in the sewing machine.


Note that I use a ruler to lay out the width of the pleat at the waist and then a tapering jig to mark a slightly curved line from the Steeking line to the waist. This gives a very nice shape to the Fell area.
In the picture you can see one pleat finished and the next with the mark for the next sewing line.

Practice till you can mark and sew to the standard of at least 1/32". If you don't the entire waist measurement can be off 1/32" x 26 pleats = .8125 or 13/32" If you are off by 1/16" then you throw the waist off by 1 5/8" Not good.

The fault with the Contemporary method is that when you do all the tapering from one straight edge the curve formed by the Steeking line tends to become more of a french curve. Not a lot and I find it is not noticable on most kilts. But I never use the Contemporary method on Tartan.

Here is the finished taper.


Does this answer your question?