Freedom Kilts reviews a Stillwater

[beloitpiper]

I'd like to see you do a review of their Wool Heavyweights. Every other kilt I own is a tank, but the SWK Wool Heavywieght is amazing.

[RockyR]

Good review Steve... sounded fair and balanced to me as well. I'd also applaud you for (what seems to me) to be an accurate and fair review of another kilt company's product without trying to sound like you're putting them down or trying to "upsell" your product. Kudos.

The only thing I'd disagree with is what turpin pointed out...

I seem to recall Jerry saying that a steeking line isn't needed if the pleats aren't cut out because the full pleat width is sewn into the waistband, whereas with the pleats cut out the inside edge of the pleat is not supported, andsteeking is needed, as well as a stabilizing cloth sewn to the cut out part.

I don't steek our Semi Trads, Casuals or 5 yarders b/c we don't cut out the "pleat innards" either. The main reason you WOULD cut out the innards is to reduce bulk in the waistband. Since some fabrics are thinner than others or you use less material, a thick waistband is not always a problem. Women's kilted Skirts don't have their "innards cut out" either and aren't steeked and they don't droop.

I agree with Jerry (who Turpin quoted) on that point that steeking is done to re-inforce the pleats when they're cut out. If you DON'T cut them out, the whole depth of the pleat is supported by it being sewn into the waistband, therefore your pleats won't "droop" over time.

I'd be curious... Do Barb or Matt have a take on this? I'm looking at it from an construction / engineering standpoint, which I'm sure you can appreciate, Steve (for those of you who don't know, Steve knows "a little bit" about engineering). Keep in mind... these aren't "traditional handsewns".

[M. A. C. Newsome]

When I make a 4-yard box pleated kilt, I don't cut out in the inside of the pleats, because there is no need to. My point of reference for these kilts is always the historic kilts that I've had the benefit of examining first hand. None of these had the pleats cut out. Again, there is no need to.

On a 4 yard kilt, the pleats are not deep enough to overlap one another much, so usually you only have about 3 layers of thickness of the cloth. It's enought to provide some body without being bulky. For the same reason I also don't put in a full canvas lining in the back. I don't need it. Because I didn't cut out all the pleats, the heavy weight wool that I usually use (even the medium weight) has enough thickness to maintain the shape of the kilt. (I do put in a 2" wide strip of canvas at the waist line to add support where there will be stress from the straps and buckles pulling).

When I make a 5 yard knife pleated kilt, it's a judgement call. Usually I leave the pleats whole and intact. However, on some men, with some tartans, the pleats end up being deep enough that there is considerable overlap at the waist, and if I feel the bulk is too great, I'll cut away the pleats.

I would never do any kilt with more yardage than this without cutting away the pleats, as it creates far too much bulk in the back. I noticed the same thing about the Stillwater kilts I've been able to examine in person. The back is almost cushion-like. I've also seen some amateur made kilts with this same problem.

~M

[RockyR]

but do you steek the 4 yarders and 5 yarders?

[M. A. C. Newsome]

To answer Rocky's question, yes I steek them, but no it's probably not absolutely neccesary since I have not cut the inside of the pleats out.

[Monkey@Arms]

SNIP

This is a very light weight kilt. I did a comparison with the other kilts I own of the same general look. Please keep in mind this is a comparison of fabric weight only. All the kilts are the same size.

Stillwater Standard in Acrylic = 1lb. 13.8oz.
USA Kilts Semi-Trad in Poly/Viscose = 2lb. 8.4oz.
Freedom Kilts Dress Model in Poly/Cotton = 3lb. 8.4oz.
Barb Tewksbury 16oz. Lochcarran Tank = 3lb. 14.6oz.

snip

The pleats of the Stillwater vary somewhere between 5/8" and 1" reveal.

SNIP

The other test was to see how the fabric pilled. I took a piece of canvas and rubbed for ten minutes and the pills were as large as green peas. Now that's a pretty harsh test. Time will tell.

Would I buy another Stillwater? Yes. When this one falls apart from abuse.
Would I recommend Stillwater to my customers? Yes, as long as they know what they are getting for their money.
I've bought nylon sporrans from Jerry and I love them. The entire experience of buying from him is outstanding.

Thanks for the review Steve. I have noticed the pilling on my SWK standard.

I was surprised to see the weight difference, however, as many people I've talked to perceive the SWK Acrylic to be heavier than PV.

My turn to ask the lay person's question, what is the pleat's reveal?

Best regards,

Jake

[The Wizard of BC]

I was also surprised by the weight of the Stillwater fabric. I also assumed that it was heavier. That's why I weighed it. I almost thought my calibrated hand was lying to me.

I know exactly what the P/V of a USA Kilt weighs. And although the Stillwater has more length of fabric it weighs half what my Semi-Trad does. That puts the actual fabric weight at somewhere around 5-6 oz. per yard.

Pleat reveal is one of the terms I use for Contemporary Kilts that have no Tartan Pattern. It means the same as Pleat width. Or that part of the pleat you see revealed on the outside. I call the part underneath that you don't see Pleat depth.

[turpin]

Reveal is the amount of pleat showing across the back, generally measured at the bottom of the fell. in a well-made and well-pressed pleat that hangs properly the reveal should be of uniform width from the fell to the selvedge. Here is a good example, IMO. Notice how the stripe is centered in the reveal all the way down.

*ok, steve beat me to it. he's the pro anyway*. but i have the pic!

[canawler]

Great review. Definitely the most detailed review I have seen of a Stillwater and I like detail.

A question for anyone with the wool heavyweights. Are the pleats and aprons on the heavyweight kilts formed any better, ie. straighter, more consistent size? Or do they also need to be re-pressed on delivery. My ironing skills are non-existent (don't recall ever picking up an iron.)

Also, relating to pilling, are acrylic and polyester related in any way?

[The Wizard of BC]

Yes, Acrylic an Polyester are exactly the same thing. Man-made fibres from which kilts can be made.

Just as Cows and Camels are the same. Both quadrupedal ruminants who's name begins with C.