Made my first kilt

**Tukaram** · 9th June 07, 08:43 PM

My daughter (age 16)wanted a long skirt in our tartan (Gordon). We found a good price on some material (actually ordered a great kilt and cut it up). She made her skirt, as well as the vest and shirt for Scarborough Faire. (our local Ren Fest)

We had tons of material left over so I decided to try my hand at kilt making. I do own a couple kilts but this is much nicer material than my other two (one is a Sport Kilt, the other an E-Bay special). Anyway....since patterns are for sissies I decided to go ahead and wing it. I am not very happy with the pleats. I did not get them as straight as I should have and I can't get them to stay pressed. I also did not taper the top (maybe patterns aren't for sissies?) I think I may need more material to cover my extra girth also. After her skirt and my kilt we did have enough left over for her to make a big shawl so I should have put more into the kilt pleats I think.

Let me know what y'all think. I certainly want some of the "way to go" "looks great" kind of comments but I really do want some constructive criticism for my next kilt. My son (age 19) wants me to make him one and if we order another great kilt we can easily make a kilt for both of us.

Her outfit after a very muddy day at the Faire.

The front

The back. I really don't like the pleats.

Left side. The only picture I like.

Right side

**BEEDEE** · 10th June 07, 11:52 AM

Hmmm -- if you have 4 or 5 yards of material in that kilt, I would suggest unpicking and making an x-kilt from Alan-H's instructions. See: http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...t=x-marks+kilt

I've made tow so far form these intustions, one a brown duck material, the other a grey green fashion tartan. Easy to follow and make a good box pleat finish.

Brian

**McMurdo** · 10th June 07, 12:12 PM

Considering you figured it out for yourself, I think its a good effort, however I would tend to agree with BEEDEE about the xkilt, you just might end up with something you like more, but do not dispair I have heard it said alot that every kilt making experience is also a learning experience.

**Pleater** · 10th June 07, 01:07 PM

It looks as though you really don't have enough material in the kilt - and possibly that when pressing the pleats the edges were stretched.

I suspect that you don't have any under apron pleats or a double size pleat on the right to allow the aprons to fall straight and for you to move inside the kilt.

On the side view the stripe rises towards the back a sure sign that there isn't enough material to go round so it slides upwards.

Could it be you have worked to your waist measurement, expecting the amount of material in the pleats to accommodate the hips? That will cause the pleats to flare out.

I have found that the trick to get the pleats to hang vertically is to ensure they fall straight from the widest latitude at that longitude, and then to shape the material into the waist above that, and then follow the body shape above that for however many inches you want the rise to be.

Don't get me wrong - for a first go that isn't bad at all, but you need to be a bit more generous with the fabric for that style, and to bend the top of the pleats a bit to shape them around and down and avoid the tendency to flare.

**Tukaram** · 10th June 07, 01:54 PM

I really didn't realize how bad it looked until she took these pictures.

I just looked at the x-kilt instructions and I think that may be a good way to go. The box pleats may work better for me. I did just go from the waist measurement, I didn't know how to take the big hips into the equation.

I am not sure how much material is in the kilt. I think it is actually only about 3 yards. Like I said it was the scrap material from my daughters skirt, so I had to make do with what I had. (I really thought there was more material in it) Each apron is 15" long. There are only 13 pleats. The tartan has a 5" pattern, laying on the table each pleat has 2" showing and 3" pleated under. (as you can see when I wear it the pleats certainly spread out.)

Since my son wants a Gordon kilt I think I will just order more material and make 2. I will most likely leave this one as is and chalk it up as a learning experience. I really don't think there is enough material for even the x-kilt now that I did a bit of math on the material....and my butt.

Thanks for the comments, they have given me some good ideas on the next one!

**CameronTaylor** · 11th June 07, 12:03 PM

Alan's instructions will get you through it ok wether you go with the box pleat or a knife pleat, they work great both ways.
Also: if Pittsburgh Kilts website is still up he had instructions on throwing one together - well worth looking at along with the H-man's Xstructions.

CT - the combination is enlightening

**way2fractious** · 11th June 07, 12:43 PM

Looked at the website for the great kilt, but did not find any discussion on the material they use. Looking at your pics, especially the selvedge, the material appears to be a wool/and ? mix. The pleats on a lightweight wool mix will NOT press as nicely - and stay pressed - as they would on heavier, worsted, 100% wool. Consider the material.

Echoing others, kiltmaking literally starts with hip measurements, not waist measurements. The tapering in the sewn-down portion of the pleats accounts for the differences. Certain few individuals have no need of tapering, however.

X-kilts were meant to be made from cotton-based materials, and unreinforced on the inside. But the techniques learned will stand you in good stead as you continue making kilts.

There will come a time when you feel ready to tackle the full traditional kilt. The essential tool there is the book, The Art of Kiltmaking. It can be ordered from Celtic Dragon Press.

Your daughter's outfit is smashing. Your kilt looks good, too, and if anyone asks, answer proudly that you made it yourself. Your next ones will look even better as your confidence grows.

w2f

**beloitpiper** · 11th June 07, 12:57 PM

For a first-attempt, that looks pretty good! There is certainly room for improvment, and two two things I think would help is if you sewed down the pleats to the hips, and used more material (and, therefore, more pleats).

I really love the tartan, though. I'm glad you chose the best clan in Scotland!!!

**Ayin McFye** · 11th June 07, 01:06 PM

For a first kilt , I thought you did a pretty good job. I bet you could do the same exact thing over again, and you'd do it better next time. You'll definitely want to add a lot more pleats, which means more fabric to start off with, but again for making do with what you had to work with and as a first time kilt, you did great. Keep up the great work and effort!

**andyfg** · 11th June 07, 02:39 PM

Kily making is not easy! Good attempt. The best book on the subject is by our own Barb T. She explains the intricacies of waist to hip measurements etc. "The Art of Kiltmaking" is a great book, even if you never make another kilt!
Check out this thread.

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=21855