I believe that a "True" tartan is one which identifies, or represents a clan, family, country, state, business, or some other group. While a Fashion tartan was designed to be pretty. Both stes contain very good tartans, but one has something behind it. I believe it is this added depth, which makes a tartan "True" or not. That said I do not know another word for the "True" tartans to seperate them from the "Fashion" tartans.