I fully understand your disappointment, James, but I have to agree with Phil, that every kilt maker likes to make kilts to his or her own specification. Here in Scotland, I have bought traditional kilts from The Kilt Shop in Galashiels and from Tyne Tartans in Hawick. Each uses a different kiltmaker and I now know what to expect - a kilt from Galashiels will come with only one buckle on each side and if I want a kilt with a third buckle I should order from the Hawick shop.