All the terms we use to describe our kilts are not yet standardized. Especially since the advent of Casual and Contemporary Styles. Each kiltmaker uses most of the same terms but how those terms are applied is kinda fuzzy.
To Barb who is trained as a Traditional Style Kiltmaker the term Drop is used to define the length of the kilt from the hem up to the middle of the top strap.
Above the middle of the top strap the kilt is no longer tapered but flares back out. This area is called the Rise. Barb uses a 2" rise. Some old military kilts had a 4 or more inch rise.
When measuring for a kilt to be made by Barb you would measure from your natural waist down to the hem. She will then add the rise.
This system is not universal. This is why each kiltmaker here will tell you "USE THE MEASUREMENT SYSTEM OF THE KILTMAKER WHO WILL BE MAKING YOUR KILT. NEVER USE SOMEONE ELSE'S SYSTEM."
For example, I use Drop to define the total length of the kilt from the top of the waistband to the bottom of the hem. But then, I don't make Traditional Style Kilts. My kilts have a waistband similar to a pair of trousers so the rise is already built in.
The best advice anyone can give you is ask your kiltmaker what method they use and what definitions of the terms they like.
As far as other terms you may have heard I would suggest finding a copy of Barb's book "The Art of Kiltmaking". This is the standard. It will give you all the information on the parts that make up a kilt and will get you informed enough to ask the right questions of your kiltmaker.
Steve Ashton
www.freedomkilts.com
Skype (webcam enabled) thewizardofbc
I wear the kilt because: Swish + Swagger = Swoon.
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