Differences in Mills?

[Captain]

Wow... I was hoping you'd reply Matt, but I didn't think you'd write a book on the subject. LOL.

I had noticed the change in proportion and I do like the more balanced look of the Strathmore. The darker stripes are actually Navy on both fabrics, it's just the whole computer thing messing with them.

It makes sense what you said about mills competing, I never quite looked at it that way. I guess in my mind a tartan was a tartan was a tartan, how could it change?

The sash I have (as near as I can tell) is 11oz, so not suitable for a short-yardage kilt, plus I've talked with various clan members and they've tried to get enough orders to do a special run the way it look in the sash, but to no avail... so I know no one else is stocking it like that, and it's not likely that they'll get enough together to get a run of it anywho.

All told, I really do like the Strathmore coloration better, again I think it's a more "wear-able" color (I'm not big into pastels... though the wife loves baby blue), the main thing was the shock of seeing it not match what I was married in. Upon further discussion with the little lady, I think if they ever do a run of the lighter color we'll get her a kilted skirt in it, since she likes baby blue better, and we figure the difference between the two of us will be a good thing (we can't stand to match in public... it's just one of those weird things).

Thanks for all the answers guys, this has been a very informative post and answered a lot of questions that have cropped up about several tartans that I've noticed differences in!

[Luckey]

Where else can you go with a question about a specific tartan and get such an in-depth response from an expert such as Matt. I love this forum!

[Don Patrick]

I seem to learn something new everytime I visit the site. I had no idea of this much variance of color in a clan tartan, other than the modern/ancient/hunting/muted issues. ... and I guess I thought the thread count was the basis for a clan tartan.

I think the lesson I learned here, is to purchase all items you need at the same time. Guess I need to try and expand my last order with Matt.

[Gordon]

I can add something to this topic as we are the 'mystery mill' who wove the swatch on the right. In fact we have made it a few times for the clan.
It was made in 12 oz weight to clan specified colours, and thread count, and to answer Matts question...it is Midnight Navy (not black) in ours.
It would seem that when Strathmore reproduced it, they used whatever stock colours they had rather than dye to match...which is perfectly understandable, we do it all the time.
This applies to all tartans...some weaving mills have their own dyeing whereas others buy ready dyed yarn from various sources, therefore there can be significant difference in competing mills versions of a particular tartan.

Gordon
Fraser & Kirkbright Weaving

[way2fractious]

This is a fascinating subject. It shows how the practicalities of business make minor adjustments to the theoretical practices to produce the wide variations, even uniqueness, in the world of fabrics.

Even more amazing in this particular discussion is the gathering of the original players - that is, Gordon wove the other sample. That also happened when he saw one of my kilts made from tartan of unknown origin - again, unknown until he saw it and pointed out some of the manufacturing elements that identified it as woven by F & K.

This forum is indeed a "gathering" place.

[davedove]

I think the lesson I learned here, is to purchase all items you need at the same time. Guess I need to try and expand my last order with Matt.

If you need items to match completely, such as a kilt and fly plaid, it's probably best to get them all at once, from the same run of cloth. Even different runs from the same mill can have minor variations in color.