X-Kilt (and first kilt, period) and a question

[alhrensblade]

Hi all,

Before beginning a foray into any other sort of kiltmaking, I thought I'd try my skills at the (hands down) most thorough instructions out there- nevermind the fact that I rather like the look of the X-Kilt. I'm just about finished tapering the waist at present, and will have some construction pics as soon as I get my SD card for my camera back- this thing is really starting to look good, even if it is just made from some random gray fabric I had laying about.

I do have one question though- the "first" and "last" pleats (the ones that butt up against the apron) confuse me a little. I'm not entirely sure what Alan H is getting at in the X-Kilt manual (or in the thread by another poster here) as to how to shape the pleat that goes under the apron.

I've currently got the first and last pleats tacked to the edge of the 3" section outside either pleat- (the 'top line' of the section labeled "front-facing, inner fold of first pleat is 3" and the bottom line of the corresponding 3" margin next to the inner apron, on the marking diagram on p29 of the X-Kilt book), but am I reading it right that the "under-pleat" section on each of these is supposed to be a full 3"? (i.e., instead of tacking the pleat to the outside line, said outside line becomes the fold line inside and overlaps the underpleat between pleats 1 and 2) The 'reverse pleat' for the front apron that I have currently has a fair bit of extra material on it which is currently sort of in the way of the velcro closure. I'm just looking to make sure I've got the right idea before I go so far as to tack on a waistband, and I'd much rather rip out the stitching I have now (all of 1/2" of bar tacking on each side) than get it wrong in my head. ^^

[Razbarry]

Welcome. I also am a kilting and x-kilt making newbie. Just finished my first X-kilt and it turned out just the way I wanted it too.

I had the similar questions to yours. Alan H. and F-HCAG both were very helpful. Check out this thread. http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...light=razbarry. F-HCAG I am sorry if I stole your post but I wanted to share the wealth you passed on to me.

Razberry

[alhrensblade]

Many thanks, Razbarry, and by extension F-HCAG- those pictures were -wonderful- to help explain things. I've got the kilt just about finished, only to discover something unexpected: I didn't quite have the hang of measuring, and the kilt closes, but it's -very- tight (it's exactly to my measurements, which were apparently too tight!) On the plus side, I've got about 2 feet of spare fabric on my under-apron, so I can add one extra pleat (though I'll have to taper the existing pleat a bit) to make it fit right. Makes me glad I used the ancient and honorable McFabricThatWasLayingAround tartan to try my first one I like the look of it a lot, though- if I leave the space for that last "pleat", it fits wonderfully. It's probably a good thing I've got a bit of a belly, it makes the tapers much easier (no pleat is tapered more than half an inch). Will finish up tonight, and will have some pics up.

[alhrensblade]

I've got a few pics of the construction up at www.brixis.org/blog- I can't wait to get home to finish the thing. But here's a shot of it with about half the taper sewn in:

[Alan H]

I missed all this, but it looks like you've got this thing figured out.

Thanks for the kind words, BTW. My little set of instructions is nothing compared to Barb's book. I'm getting "paid back" in spades by seeing and hearing of all you guys out there making X-kilts.

[alhrensblade]

I've run into plenty of instructions out there, but yours (apart from the huge underpleats by the front apron) made sense scanning it over (unlike some, where I had to read through all the way two or three times to see what people were getting at ^^). Still no pics of me wearing the kilt properly, but I just got it out of the wash and ironed it, and took a brief walk around the block. VERY comfortable- though I'm sure the people out driving to work were wondering about me, heh.

Will be starting another very soon, in canvas this time- heavier fabric, as winter's coming on quick. Now I need to get hold of a pair of kilt hose, or at least long wool socks so I don't have to put the kilt away with my motorcycle.

Thanks again to Alan H for writing the instructions, and F-HCAG for the pictures that got my head straightened out. ^^

[Alan H]

Will be starting another very soon, in canvas this time- heavier fabric, as winter's coming on quick. Now I need to get hold of a pair of kilt hose, or at least long wool socks so I don't have to put the kilt away with my motorcycle.

Here's a thought.... instead of canvas, which will wear like iron but also will wrinkle the second you sit on it and comes out of the washing machine looking like a horror....what if...

what IF....

You spent some $$$ and got some tweed wool and made the next one out of wool?

Try ebay?

[Alan H]

ebay item numbers...

20015388148

180160998847

I might message the sellers first and ask about the weight. No point in getting suiting weight wool, you want a medium to heavy weight.

[alhrensblade]

...I actually had never thought of checking ebay for fabric.

I've already bought the canvas (and it couldn't hurt to get some more practice in before buying 'nice' fabric- going to try a wider apron this time, the one I've got feels too narrow, and the first kilt made me update my measurements a bit) but that's actually a damn nice price on some of the stuff I'm seeing... what sort of weight would I be looking for, specifically- I know 16oz tartan is what's used for "traditional" kilts, but where does, say, 11oz compare?

[The F-H.C.A.G.]

...F-HCAG I am sorry if I stole your post but I wanted to share the wealth you passed on to me.

Razberry

Don't be sorry. I'm glad my photos, etc. are helpful and I am glad of someone to help pass things along, as I am often too busy to check in daily (sometimes even weekly is too much for me!). Therefore, I probably miss a lot of posts/threads where I could make myself helpful.

...

Thanks again to Alan H for writing the instructions, and F-HCAG for the pictures that got my head straightened out. ^^

You're welcome!

Be well,