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  1. #1
    Join Date
    7th July 06
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    What makes a kiltmaker professional?

    Does a kiltmaker have to make a living at it to be a professional? At least as a primary income source. Or does it come down to whether someone is willing to pay them for their work? I paid for this kilt in trade, to be sure, but to a value in excess of $190, and I supplied the material.

    This is a Gordon Modern box pleated kilt in 18-oz material from Robert Noble mill in Scotland. Noble has supplied tartan to the military since the 1880's. It is very well-made, and-sewn by one of our forum members, MacWage, who barely has time for his own projects so you may not be as lucky as I was. Here are a couple of front shots, taken on a hike today to the ruins of the Roswell Mill





    In the second shot I'm standing in front of a dam built around 1840 by slave labor, as was the original mill.

    Now check out these pleats. After I hit them with an iron (John barely finished the sewing in time to deliver it to me at the Hartwell games) they look super, and hold a crease beautifully. It was quite warm today, but the box pleat, even in 18 oz, was still comfortable.



    John will be his own toughest critic, so I will only say there are a few minor issues, like steeking stitches that show across a couple of pleats. But since a box doesn't really need steeking to support the pleats I was thinking of just cutting through and removing them.

    Also, the over-apron is about an inch or 2 too narrow, not coming all the way over to the edge of the reverse pleat. And the rise is only about an inch. I'd prefer a 2-inch rise. But Matt Newsome only put in a 1.5 inch rise on my Gordon Weathered, so maybe a shorter rise is peculiar to box pleat style.

    All in all, I'm very satisfied with this kilt. John did a fine job, and he cares a lot about his work.

    BTW, I have more of the material for any of you folks out there who want a regimental weight kilt. $48 a yard plus shipping. 54 inches wide. You won't find it for less elsewhere, and won't have to pay duty (if you're in the USA).
    Last edited by turpin; 14th October 07 at 10:07 PM.
    Convener, Georgia Chapter, House of Gordon (Boss H.O.G.)

    Where 4 Scotsmen gather there'll usually be a fifth.
    7/5 of the world's population have a difficult time with fractions.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    18th December 06
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    Burlington, Ontario, Canada
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    I am surprised that even our professional kilt makers are able to make a living, let alone a decent living for the amount of work that goes into a kilt offset by the cost of material.
    You give a refreshing and honest review. This should be appreciated by all, including McWages. All in all it looks to be a mighty fine kilt.
    And to John, it looks as though you have every right to call include yourself as a kilt maker. Well done.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    15th April 07
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    State College, PA
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    Quote Originally Posted by turpin View Post
    Does a kiltmaker have to make a living at it to be a professional? At least as a primary income source. Or does it come down to whether someone is willing to pay them for their work? I paid for this kilt in trade, to be sure, but to a value in excess of $190, and I supplied the material.
    That is a very good question. Is it when you make your first kilt,10th, 100th? I am working on my fith kilt and consider myself a rookie.

    Quote Originally Posted by turpin View Post
    John will be his own toughest critic, so I will only say there are a few minor issues, like steeking stitches that show across a couple of pleats. But since a box doesn't really need steeking to support the pleats I wat thinking of just cutting through and removing them.
    I would suggest that you steek over the areas that are showing thru. Then make sure that the steeking that you are cutting is anchored with the steeking that you added. Then cut the errant steeking.

    Quote Originally Posted by turpin View Post
    All in all, I'm very satisfied with this kilt. John did a fine job, and he cares a lot about his work.
    NOW THAT MAKES HIM A KILTMAKER!
    Wallace Catanach, Kiltmaker

    A day without killting is like a day without sunshine.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    17th April 06
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    Nice looking kilt

  5. #5
    Join Date
    21st August 07
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    San Clamente Ca
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    A very nice kilt, I would say that, that qualifies as a professional job. I especially like the chosen tartan Gordon is my clan, eventually I will have a tank in that tartan I was wavering between knife and box pleats but not any more.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    6th December 06
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    Very nice kilt and beautiful photos!
    Great job, MacWage!

  7. #7
    M. A. C. Newsome is offline
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    Quote Originally Posted by turpin View Post
    Also, the over-apron is about an inch or 2 too narrow, not coming all the way over to the edge of the reverse pleat. And the rise is only about an inch. I'd prefer a 2-inch rise. But Matt Newsome only put in a 1.5 inch rise on my Gordon Weathered, so maybe a shorter rise is peculiar to box pleat style.
    Hey, John's kilt looks good on you!

    About the rise, I think if you measure from the bottom of the leather strap, you'll find that the weathered Gordon I made for you does have a 2" rise, or very close to it. You are probably measuring from the center of the straps (on the holes).

    I know some kiltmakers measure the rise from the holes, but I was taught to do so from the bottom of the strap. Not sure of the difference, but there ya go!

    Matt

  8. #8
    Join Date
    9th January 07
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    Gainesville, FL
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    Looks great Turpin! He did a very nice job! I love the Gordon tartan. It makes a very sharp kilt. Our pipe band wears it and I have thought of getting a personal kilt made of it. I like your tshirt as well!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    11th November 06
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    I saw this kilt in person at Hartwell and it is very nice. MacWages did a fine job.
    I don't know what makes someone a professional, but he should be justly proud of the craftsmanship on this kilt. I think it would hold it's own against most other kilts I've seen.
    Sapienter si sincereClan Davidson (USA)
    Bydand Do well and let them say...GORDON!My Blog
    "I'll have a scotch on the rocks. Any scotch will do as long as it's not a blend of course. Single malt Glenlivet, Glenfiddich perhaps maybe a Glen... any Glen." -Swingers

  10. #10
    Join Date
    30th November 04
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    Here's an interesting comparison. My husband was a level three EMT on a volunteer basis for many years, and he and his colleagues were always irritated when people made the distinction between professional EMTs and volunteer EMTs. They argued that they were just as well trained and just as professional as the volunteers and that the distinction should be between volunteer professional and paid professional EMTs.

    I'll agree that there isn't a one-to-one analogy with kiltmaking, but I would certainly not require someone to make his/her primary living from kiltmaking in order to be considered a professional.

    Barb

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