What makes a kiltmaker professional?

[Pleater]

From my own experience making kilts for myself, I'd say that a professional kiltmaker is someone who has no need to worry about any housekeeping, does not need to sort out such things as tax and accounts, and probably has a good set of false teeth so they never need to take a few hours off to get to their dentist. They are then able to spend every moment of the working day, and possibly evening measuring and sewing kilts.

Having made and remade my kilts for a couple of years as I lost weight (12 inches off the waistline) I came to the conclusion that I was hardly able to afford the time to keep myself in kilts, and even now my losses have slowed down I have more kilts needing attention than I have available to wear.

I would love to be able to get up each morning and not have to personally sort out meals, shopping, packing up sold items and taking them to the post office, being home for deliveries, taking phone calls, visiting an aged relative to do their shopping and washing and housekeeping - though I supose that makes it all the better when I realise that I have a couple of hours to spare and can immerse myself in kilt construction.

That looks to be a fine kilt, and I don't think that a few stitches showing is anything to be concerned about. The fit looks good, the horisontal lines are aligned, and I think that proportions are right too.

The heel to hem/hem to top of kilt looks to be equal - it doesn't have to actually be equal it just looks even as you stand. I think that is what gives a good impression - having looked at a few photos and tried to analyse what looks right or wrong.

In addition it just says quality.

[MacWage]

[Mark Keeney]

Unfortunately people have come to equate professional with quality.

Technically all that is needed to be a professional is to make money doing it.
There is a professional kilt maker at the local Ren Fest that sells cotton flannel kilts with elastic waistbands.

Some better terms to determine quality may be Apprentice/Master, licensed, or Certified.

[turpin]

A very nice kilt, I would say that, that qualifies as a professional job. I especially like the chosen tartan Gordon is my clan, eventually I will have a tank in that tartan I was wavering between knife and box pleats but not any more.

I think the weight of the cloth helps a lot in showing off John's work. Once you get a good crease in it it just hangs straight and holds and holds. This is probably why Matt Newsome recommends 16 oz. cloth or higher for a box pleat. Yet, because it uses only 2 yards double-wide, it is very light-feeling when hefted or worn.

Hey, John's kilt looks good on you!

Hey! It's my kilt!

About the rise, I think if you measure from the bottom of the leather strap, you'll find that the weathered Gordon I made for you does have a 2" rise, or very close to it. You are probably measuring from the center of the straps (on the holes).

I know some kiltmakers measure the rise from the holes, but I was taught to do so from the bottom of the strap. Not sure of the difference, but there ya go!

Matt

Yes, the 8 yard tanks I have had made for me (one by Barb T, one by Kiltstore) both have 2 inch rises measured from the center of the top buckle. I guess it's important, then when submitting measurements to the kiltmaker, to understand his/her definition of length of rise versus drop.

Now Mr. Wages, no false modesty, please. You do good work!

[cessna152towser]

Thats a very fine looking kilt. No doubt about that. Well done MacWage, take a bow.
Congratulations Turpin on acquiring a splendid kilt.

[MacWage]

I
Now Mr. Wages, no false modesty, please. You do good work!

I'm just glad you are HAPPY.

Now, that one is a bit of a hybrid. I have looked at Barb's book and took some from that, some from CONVERSATIONS with Matt (not direct teaching nor instruction), and some practical "trial and error." When looking at your weathered Gordon, I saw some things Matt does different than I have seen.

I know every small thing on there, so a kiltmaker is probably their OWN worst critic (I can see a couple in the shots).
The steek that "popped" through (I didn't realize THAT until the sun of Hartwell- was black thread on DARK tartan) is probably not really needed. On several of my own kilts, that one is not there (never bothered to do it, though intended), so it probably isn't really needed (as the lining really isn't either, as it is just cotton sewn on top of the wool). You should be able to just snip it or use a seam ripper and NEVER miss it.

Now, before anyone asks, I am NOT planning on taking orders for a while longer. I want to try something first and understand something else (which is why Turpin's kilt is a tad "small"- unintentionally).


As for the rise, The "waist band" (girdle as you called it) is 2 inches, which I used for the rise. The straps and buckles are in/on that waistband, which I used as a "sleeve." That must be different than what Matt and Barb do, so I'll have to get my copy of Barb's book back and see what it says.
(I am still relatively "new" at this and each kilt is better than the last, noticeably to me. Turpin's was the 9th TOTAL I tried.)

[Howard Clark]

I think it looks right nice. An they are supposed to get better, that's the way any of us progress in our work, whatever it may be.

[Tartan Hiker]

Good looking job, John.

[Archangel]

Van Morrison says "understand the requirements and deliver the product on time."