X marks Damaged Selvedge

[Moosedog]

Hi, All,

I purchased several meters of the X marks tartan with the damaged selvedge months ago (2-3 price jumps ago) from Fraser & Kirkbright. It was clear what I was using it for. I was rather disappointed to find that many folks since then have reported they bought yardage subsequently that had usable edges...I realize I got it at a discount for a reason, but this is pretty bad.


I have talked to F & K about this. I have always gotten impeccable service from them but their response this time was pretty much "tough luck." I know I bought damaged goods, but this is worse than I was led to believe. Out of 6linear yards the longest bit that is any good is less than a foot. It is chewed up the whole rest of the way just like this. And there is discoloration a few inches up from the selvedge on the fabric as well. I just wanted to alert you all that if you buy some it may not have the great selvedge folks have been discussing.


Moosedog

[Alan H]

I just ordered 2 yards, and I'm mentally prepared to cut off 3-4 inches from each selvedged edge, serge and blind hem. I can HOPE, though!


After all, Steve Ashton told us all about the issues with this cloth in detail, back when he sent it back to F&K. He described the damaged edge and the stains, and told people to beware. Now, that was a good 6 + months ago, so folks who are new might not have seen those posts!

[auld argonian]

Well, I have my three meters on the way and am prepared to blind hem the...er...hem. Sounds like they're down to the last few pieces so we'll see how it goes.

Moosedog, you do know the whole sewing machine blind hem attachment business, I hope? I only ask because I just found out about it not very long ago myself and was rather amazed that my mid-eighties Singer could do this without an onboard computer like so many current machines have.

Best

AA

[The Wizard of BC]

It was for this exact reason that the damaged fabric was rejected. Even in areas where it does not seem to have the damage you have, there were small cuts and nicks along the entire selvedge of the entire bolt. These nicks are very small but the hem will unravel eventually.
The discoloration and stain spots are from oil or grease when the machine appearantly threw a bearing.

To undergo stresses that would cause this much visible damage it was found that the body of the fabric was stretched and distorted thru it's entire length. This distortion was not at first noticeable until I rolled the fabric out on my table and then found it would not lay flat.

Gordon was VERY up front notifying us that this fabric had been damaged out side of his control and offered to re-weave the entire order at his own expense. He replaced the entire order with 1st quality fabric and everyone who received their fabric have been 100% satisfied.

This damage was done at the fabric finishers and not by Fraser & Kirkbright. However Gordon was forced to eat the entire cost of the damage and the cost to re-weave the fabric.

It was stated at the time that Gordon would sell this fabric as-is with the understanding that all kilts made from this fabric would require hemming.

I am very sorry you are not satisfied with the piece of fabric you received but please remember that Gordon only sold this fabric in an attempt to recover the loss he incurred. No one has been defrauded here.

With the exception of this one bolt of X Marks I have been completely satisfied with the service and product offered by Gordon. He is a totally honest and open business man. Any time I have a request for Tartan fabric F&K is where I go first. For a special order of Tartan there is no one I would trust except Gordon.

[Chef]

It will be interesting to find out. I called as soon as I saw the thread that it was available; Gordon went out to check the material for me and said he found a good piece. It's being delivered to Steve so we'll see what it's like soon.

[Colin]

Let's be fair folks. Besides Steve's very detailed warning about the selvage, the Fraser and Kirkbright website even lists the stuff as "X Marks Selvedge Damaged".

I understand that some people have managed to get a few yards that are workable, but no one can say they didn't know what they were getting. It's been made pretty clear that the material is damaged. People that seem to be getting the workable yards also seem to be the folks that have called and spoken to Gordon, or someone else at F&K as opposed to email. If someone wanted primo top of the line tartan, they ordered it in the bulk order.

Gordon at F&K and Steve have worked very hard to make sure that the orders that are generated by members here are top notch. That is why this batch is available for all right now.

I feel for you Moosedog and I understand the disappointment, but 2-3 months is a long time. Sales and closeout items are always a buyer beware situation. A better deal (or a worse deal) may always come up at any time. Thanks for the warning though, as people should be aware they may not get as nice of a piece as others have lucked out with.T hat's the luck of the draw.

Hopefully you can still make the material work.

[auld argonian]

Let's be fair folks. Besides Steve's very detailed warning about the selvage, the Fraser and Kirkbright website even lists the stuff as "X Marks Selvedge Damaged".

I understand that some people have managed to get a few yards that are workable, but no one can say they didn't know what they were getting. It's been made pretty clear that the material is damaged. People that seem to be getting the workable yards also seem to be the folks that have called and spoken to Gordon, or someone else at F&K as opposed to email. If someone wanted primo top of the line tartan, they ordered it in the bulk order.

Oh, I'm not complaining at all...it was a serious mark down and ANY 16 oz. wool would be cheap at the price. I'm just going to see how well I do with this and if it turns out well, I may toss in for more yardage from the next run and "do it again only better". Gotta start somewhere and it's cheaper than golf and I'll have something to wear when it's done...

Best

AA

[Pleater]

I have both selvaged and hemmed kilts - but without going and looking I couldn't tell you which they were - well, the pinstripes will have to be because of the nature of the pattern, but what I mean is that if you make a neat job of it, no one seeing you out strutting your pleats will be able to tell that you are wearing a hemmed kilt rather than one with a selvage - in fact, if it was a lightish material a hem would give it a little more swing, which might not be a bad thing.

If you take off the fabric for the waistband etc as a strip cut from selvage to selvage - or where it would have been - then the full width of the material can be used to reduce the presence of the damage on the kilt to a minimum.

Wool is wonderfully malleable, yet resilient - if it was not for the unfortunate attentions of moths it would be a perfect fibre.

Making a kilt from this poor unfortunate fabric might require more ingenuity than using perfect stuff - but I enjoy a challenge - luckily there are many miles between it and me or I might have been tempted...

[O'Neille]

I made this kilt http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=31841 from the most damaged selvedge side of a 8 meter length. I personally think it turned out great. If I could buy other tartans with damaged selvedge for less than $20 per meter, I'd have a room full. I had the same twangs of jealousy when I heard that others got some without visible damage. I cut off over two inches to get around some of the big bites taken out of my piece. Turning it into a kilt for about $60 in materials makes it all good.

[Moosedog]

Alan-I did see the posts regarding the tartan. My issue is not that the selvedge is damaged. It clearly was advertised as such. My disappointment lies in that I bought it early: I know Gordon is out money on this and I wanted to at least support his efforts at recouping costs. I got a terrible piece, while those who waited months and bought it at a lower price got good stuff. I wote Gordon to see if I could purchase additional fabric that might have a better selvedge and was told there was nothing to do. Then later, folks were able to get some "hand-picked" that was good. That is my issue.

AA-thanks for the reminder. I think this will be my opportunity to experiment with the blind hemming option!

Moosedog


On edit: Colin, I hear you and I agree. My intent was not to knock F & K, I have gotten great service from them in the past. My original post stands--I just wanted to alert folks that this is what some of the tartan looks like. I will end here.