1. Buy The Art of Kiltmaking
  2. Search for Alan H's directions on how to make a X-kilt.
  3. Search for Pleater's directions on pleating a reverse kinguissie kilt.

Barb and Elsie's book will give you instruction on making a traditional knife pleat kilt.
Alan H's directions will give you the foundation for making a box-pleated kilt.
Pleater's directions will give you an idea of how to pleat a kilt like a Utilikilt or RKilt.