Got a new Newsome box pleated kilt (teaser pics incl.)

**McMurdo** · 27th November 07, 07:40 PM

It is a wonderful looking kilt congratulations JRB. We really are a bunch of vultures when it comes to Matt's work aren't we?

**James MacMillan** · 27th November 07, 07:41 PM

Originally Posted by ccga3359

What, you're in on this as well? I need a new wool kilt, the mercury is hovering around 0°C. Like you need yours now in Cali!

Yes, but mine in in the Leatherneck tartan! So I should trump cold weather.

**Cage** · 27th November 07, 07:43 PM

Gorgeous kilt! I can't wait until I can get in line.

Originally Posted by ccga3359

What, you're in on this as well? I need a new wool kilt, the mercury is hovering around 0°C. Like you need yours now in Cali!

Shouldn't you be use to the ON weather by now?

**Woodsheal** · 28th November 07, 08:21 AM

Nice, Jay! Look forward to seeing it at kilt night....

**JRB** · 28th November 07, 04:36 PM

I hope to make it to the December kilt night and, if I do, I'll definitely wear my new kilt.

**andyfg** · 28th November 07, 07:38 PM

Ah, the Newsome takeover!

**fluter** · 28th November 07, 08:59 PM

Verrry pretty! I love the look of the pleats. Please model it for us ASAP.

**Chef** · 28th November 07, 09:06 PM

Very nice kilt?

Here's a question for Matt though. I like the idea of the box pleat but I find the pleats a bit too wide for my taste can you get a box pleated kilt with more pleats? Obviously it would use more fabric but that's fine by me. Now I know there are the military box pleated kilts, but that is not what I mean, I'm thinking more of a kilt that has say twice as many pleats across the back as the one pictured above.

**M. A. C. Newsome** · 29th November 07, 05:59 AM

Originally Posted by Chef

Very nice kilt?

Here's a question for Matt though. I like the idea of the box pleat but I find the pleats a bit too wide for my taste can you get a box pleated kilt with more pleats? Obviously it would use more fabric but that's fine by me. Now I know there are the military box pleated kilts, but that is not what I mean, I'm thinking more of a kilt that has say twice as many pleats across the back as the one pictured above.

Jay's kilt has seven pleats across the back, which is towards the low end. I've never made a box pleated kilt with fewer than six pleats (FYI, one of the 200 yr old box pleated kilts we have in the museum only has six pleats).

On average, the box pleated kilts I make will have more pleats than this. I'd say 8 to 12 is average, depending on the size of the gent.

The main factor in determining how wide the pleats will be is the size of the sett. What makes a "true" box pleated kilt different from the modern regimental version of the box pleat is that the pleats are the same depth in either direction and there will be little to no overlap on the underside of the pleats. Ideally they will just meet in the center.

When pleating to the stripe, which is the norm, this means that the width of the pleat will be 1/3 the sett size. (If you are pleating to no patter, you can make the pleat however wide you want!).

The sett repeat in Jay's kilt was pretty small (I can't remember just what it was, but something like 5.5" I think). The minimum width I like to use for a box pleat it 2". Anything smaller than that and the pleats don't have enough depth. What I would have ordinarily done in this case was pleat to alternate lines, which would have increased the sett size by 50% (and effectively minimced pleating to the sett). However, Jay wanted it pleated to the stripe because his other Rose HTg kilt was pleated to sett. So I doubled the sett size (pleated to every other double white line), which made the pleats a bit wider than average, but not overly wide.

I think anything between 2" and 3.5" is a good size for a pleat. I can't remember where Jay's falls in this range, but it is towards the wider end of things. Some consideration must be made to the size of the gentleman, as well. A larger man can get by with wider pleats, whereas a thin man might not be able to.

Aye,
Matt

**JRB** · 29th November 07, 04:21 PM

Just FYI, the pleats in my kilt are exactly 3 3/8" wide. Having a 38" waist, I assume I would fall into the "man of size" catagory Matt was talking about.

Anyway, my wife thinks the kilt (along with the pleats) looks smashing on me. I'll do my best to take some pics of me in my kilt this weekend and post them ASAP. By the way, Matt was very accommodating. He initially wanted to pleat my kilt to sett plus half in order to keep the pleat width down. I was determined to have my kilt pleated to stripe so Matt acquiesced and figured out what pleating would work out best.