You may be referring to Military Box Pleats. This is where a regular knife pleat has been turned back onto itself.

Quite a few here have done this style of pleating and we had a rash of interest on this forum last year right around the time of Kilt Kamp.

You can do a search and find at least ten different threads on Military Box Pleats.

You might PM Way2fractious. I have seen his kilts done this way and they are gorgeous.

About your Tartan, any kiltmaker can order it for you. It is available in P/V and Wool, in all the weights, fairly commonly. Good luck finding a good price in 18 or 22 oz, wool though.

The Royal BC Museum has an original kilt in your Tartan and pleating system. I hope you live in a cool climate.