Leather stitching

[O'Neille]

For general utility use I just sew it on my leather sewing machine. If it is something I want to look real nice then I hand stitch it after using an appropriate drill, punch or chisel. The only machine leather stitching I like is that done with a tack/harness machine with the pull handle.

[Moosedog]

Hand stitch. Saddle stitch with waxed thread or artificial sinew.

Since I have lost partial use of hands I now find a "pony" quite helpful to keep me stitching longer before tiring...but it's not as fun as feeling the whole project at once in your hands.

Moosedog

[berserkbishop]

Good to hear im not the only one out there still hand stitching leather. I punch my holes with an awl and then saddle stitch everything I do. I am fairly new to leatherwork myself, but I dont think I will ever turn out enough product to justify purchasing a machine. How do you guys who do hand stitch get so nearly machine perfect stich width and eveness in your work? Is it just something that comes with experience. Mine are no where near as pretty as I would like.

[Moosedog]

What weight leather are you stitching? I mostly do stuff heavier than garment leather. What helps me most is the preparation...like scribing lines and either marking with an overstitch wheel to make sure I'm punching evenly or using a mutiple-pronged punch.

I have a hard time making consistent holes just punching through using my hand awl...the size might be the same but the angle different, for instance, which will make the finished product a little uneven. So I try to make sure everything lines up, punch carefully on the bench, then I sit down to stitch. Also using a diamond-shaped punch looks a little neater to me.

Moosedog

[berserkbishop]

I do a wide variety of leather. My most recent was upholstry weight leather but I will be making some saddle bags soon from a much heavier type. I do use an overstitch wheel but i guess it is the angles thing that is getting me. Oh another question, I am full of these, for heavy leather what do you leatherworkers find is the best tool for cutting. I got sold a $40 pair of sheers that wont cut a straight line and have damaged some nice leather in the process. I would like some advice from someone who has used a knife or tool day in and day out as opposed to some stupid saleswoman who hasnt sewn a piece of leather in her life. Thanks for all the comments.

Bishop

[Joel]

I do a lot of leatherwork, too...making gun hosters, belts, scabbards, etc. I always use a tin punch to make my holes. It's basicly a small nail in a wooden handle. But it makes nice lil' holes. So, if you could find one, it'd be very nice addition to your leather tools.

[Tartan Hiker]

For cutting, I use a utility knife with replaceable blades and a straight edge. For curves, I use a small surgical scalpel. Works for me.

If you want really even stitches you'll have to use a star wheel tool. You just run the little wheel along the leather and it leaves little dimples showing you where to punch the holes. Nothing short of a machine will produce such even stitching. If yoiu're stitching along the edge of thicker (5+ ounce) leather, then use a groover first. That way your stitches are always the same distance from the edge and the threads end up below the surface level of the leather, so that they don't wear as quickly.

The Tandy company offers a beginners kit with these tools, awl, thread, and the book I mentioned in my earlier post. I think I remember that it cots about $30 when I got mine a few years back.

[Moosedog]

Yep, what Tartan Hiker said. I also use a utility knife for heavier leather. I have one that is angled to allow a more natural wrist angle which gives me more control. Then a smaller utility knife for detail work.

Groovers are great for heavier leather. A whole lot easier to sew, they make the stitches look neater and protect them from abrasion. Very nice for belts and sporran straps.


There's a wonderful little hole punch available from Tandy and other retailers designed for garment leather. It doesn't stretch the leather like some can, especially nice when making...oh, baby moccasins out of deerhide, for instance. It can be a bit pricey but I have found it well worth it. If interested I'll track down a photo. Instead of having a rotating wheel for the various hole sizes, it uses the same size punch and has a rotating anvil to define the sizes.

That leather stitching kit TH mentions is a gem, especially the instruction book. I still refer to mine-- purchased in the 1960s, so you know I have gotten great mileage out of it!

Moosedog

[A Hay]

I don't have a machine, so all of my sewing is by hand with a sewing awl from Tandy (the kind with the thread on a small roller) I use a waxed linen thread.

I have used a 4 prong punch a couple of times, but I don't like it much. Mostly I use a rotary prong round punch. I scribe a line a given distance from the edge of the leather and then place the punched holes centered on this. For spacing, I punch the first hole, then lightly position the punch next to this and make a light impression. Then I punch the next hole at the edge of the light impression. Continue light impression and holes to the end of the stiched line. With a little practice, it goes well. I use the same system for lacing. I generally use the 3/32 inch wide lacing.

Thanks to all for your comments. I've learned some new things to try.

Tom

[berserkbishop]

Ok, i dont know what I am doing wrong, but the utility knives just dont seem to be doing it for me. Maybe it is a problem with me, but it seems to take way too much force to cut through thick leather and then I end up messing up the leather because with force comes mistakes. I was hoping to see if any of the $40 leather knives are worth their salt. Anybody use leather-specific knives?