Leather stitching

[Tartan Hiker]

Thick leather is hard to cut...which is why it is so great for making things that need to withstand such things. If you are going to make one-pass cuts, it will take a lot of force. If that is the case, you have to either use a clamped down straight edge or some kind of jig that helps you control the blade. Remember that force and control are inverse properties here, and a slip could result in a really bad injury. The alternative is to make multi-pass cuts, possible with a smaller blade, and retain safe control of your tool. The downside to this is that the edges you produce may be a bit ragged. Tidying these up with a small sharp blade and/or a rounding tool is not hard. Always opt for control and safety whenever possible.

[haxtonhouse]

On really thick leather, I will sometimes drill the stitch holes with a drill press, and I have even been known to use a bandsaw to cut the leather- It works very well, and then a belt sander works nice to clean up the edges.

[Amoskeag]

I am the most impatient man on the planet. I have to keep telling my self "many light cuts equals one nice one". Go slow with a sharp knife.

These are some of the stitching tools I use. Tandy closed the store in Manchester so I don't know where to get them now, maybe online. Most good craft stores should have them.


The groover works best on unfinished leather, the star wheel I run along a straight edge. I use a wooden mallet to pound things as it doesn't flare the tool heads. I also second the Tandy book. I have it and it has lots of good info. I'm pretty fortunate to have a friend, also kilted (74th Reg O' Foot - Highland) who makes shoes for museums and he's very free with his advice. I'm just a hacker but by the photos here I can see that there are some real craftsmen online and it appears that they are also willing to help out.
Bob

[James MacMillan]

I think I understand that the tool on the far right is used to punch regular slots in leather for lacing.

Is there any advantage to drilling over punching?

[Amoskeag]

Oops. Sorry, that's correct.
My experience has been that the tool is quick and uniform and makes wider holes for the saddle stitch. The drilled holes gives a nice effect with the round hole and in many instances I like it better. It's time consuming but then all good craftsmanship is.
Bob

[James MacMillan]

So what's the use for the one on the far left? The "star wheel?"

[Amoskeag]

That's how you know where to drill the holes You roll it along (merrily?) and then drill out the dimples
Bob

[berserkbishop]

So what's the use for the one on the far left? The "star wheel?"

HMM. Star wheel. . . .never heard it called that before. I usually use a no. 6 overstitch wheel, which i believe is the proper name. Sorry, the correction is not to be pompous. . . I am new to leather workin myself, I just found it amusing. About the groover. . . . What is the best tool for marking out the line you want to stitch an even distance from the leathers edge?

[cacunn]

berserkbishop have you stopped by the Tandy Leather store in Springfield. They should be a good source of material and information.

The Leather Factory #08 SPRINGFIELD
Toll Free: 800-888-1993
Manager: Larry Bartels
2341 E Kearney Springfield, MO 65803-4970
springfield@leatherfactory.com

417-862-8669 fax: 417-862-6952