Anyone work with African Blackwood?

[Thunderbolt]

Alright,

I've got some sgian dubh blanks on the way to my door. I'm a Machinist so I'm very familiar with metalworking, filing, heat treating and all that. But that's not what I need help with.

A few years ago, I picked up some African Blackwood. They were labled "bagpipe" blanks, however the moisture content was really high, so I couldn't really make anything with them just then, now however, they are ready to work. But, I'm kinda at a loss on how to attach the blade. I have a couple of options.

First, I wish the knives came with a full tang. Then, I'd simply glue and pin the scales in place, maybe even a couple of decorative screws. But the knives come with a thinner tang.

The one way I'm thinking about attaching the handle is by making two scales, chiseling out the inside of each side to match the tang, then place the two halves together, fill with apoxy and insert the tang and let dry. Shape, sand and finish.

My problem is, that I'm hard on knives. I'm worried that the two sides will seperate under use. The other method of heating and burning the tang into would probably split the hard AB from the heat. Drilling it probably wouldn't be the best option either.

Any ideas? I'm thinking now of making a bolster with an edge or bevel where the scales would fit under them, giving them more strength, also, maybe adding a pin or two to help hold everything in place.

Just throwing things out there to get my head in the game. I know several of you make your own, with great results, I might add. Any input is welcome. Also, what did you use for a pattern for shaping the handle?

Thanks!

T.

[Jerry]

Alright,

I've got some sgian dubh blanks on the way to my door. I'm a Machinist so I'm very familiar with metalworking, filing, heat treating and all that. But that's not what I need help with.

A few years ago, I picked up some African Blackwood. They were labled "bagpipe" blanks, however the moisture content was really high, so I couldn't really make anything with them just then, now however, they are ready to work. But, I'm kinda at a loss on how to attach the blade. I have a couple of options.



First, I wish the knives came with a full tang. Then, I'd simply glue and pin the scales in place, maybe even a couple of decorative screws. But the knives come with a thinner tang.

The one way I'm thinking about attaching the handle is by making two scales, chiseling out the inside of each side to match the tang, then place the two halves together, fill with apoxy and insert the tang and let dry. Shape, sand and finish.

My problem is, that I'm hard on knives. I'm worried that the two sides will seperate under use. The other method of heating and burning the tang into would probably split the hard AB from the heat. Drilling it probably wouldn't be the best option either.

Any ideas? I'm thinking now of making a bolster with an edge or bevel where the scales would fit under them, giving them more strength, also, maybe adding a pin or two to help hold everything in place.

Just throwing things out there to get my head in the game. I know several of you make your own, with great results, I might add. Any input is welcome. Also, what did you use for a pattern for shaping the handle?

Thanks!

T.

I'm not sure what epoxy you are thinking about using, but consider this. Tiger Woods swings a 1 wood (Driver) at over 125 MPH. The impact with a golf ball at that velocity causes one heck of a lot of torque on the head, which is held onto the shaft by just a small amount of high strength shafting epoxy.And, he does this 14 times a round,plus at least a hundred practice drives on the range, without the head coming loose This kind of epoxy is available, online, from places like "Golfsmith" or Golfworks. If you have a custom club making shop in your area, they would also have it. You can find it by Googleing either of the above companies, or just search for golf club making supplies.

[Thunderbolt]

I'm not sure what epoxy you are thinking about using, but consider this. Tiger Woods swings a 1 wood (Driver) at over 125 MPH. The impact with a golf ball at that velocity causes one heck of a lot of torque on the head, which is held onto the shaft by just a small amount of high strength shafting epoxy.And, he does this 14 times a round,plus at least a hundred practice drives on the range, without the head coming loose This kind of epoxy is available, online, from places like "Golfsmith" or Golfworks. If you have a custom club making shop in your area, they would also have it. You can find it by Googleing either of the above companies, or just search for golf club making supplies.

Great idea, Jerry! I'm sure the stuff would be fantastic for impact force, but I wonder about sustained force? I don't think I'll be chopping with my sgian, but cutting and pushing hard on the handle/blade joint.

But I have to keep it in perspective. AB is very hard, and brittle. I guess I shouldn't expect the world from it. Same with the glue...

T.

[Yaish]

As someone very familiar with knives and their applications, let me add this.

If you are pushing so hard that the scales break or the glue gives way then either your knife isn't sharp enough or you have the wrong knife for the job. It's sort of like complaining that you broke your finishing hammer while driving framing nails. Right tool, right job.

The sgian Du is a small bladed utility knife, it should be used for small jobs. Cutting small cross section materials of sufficiently soft nature, light carving, cutting string, boxes, etc...

When force does need to be applied, it should be directly to the blade back. If you can't because the blade is sunk too deeply in the material then again, you have the wrong tool for the job.

All that being said I think epoxy, a couple pins, and an end cap should give you all the strength you'll need. The pins can be a decorative addition as well, and the end cap (rather than a bolster) will give strength and provide ornamentation.

[David Thornton]

Take a look at www.britishblades.com, great resources posted and a fantastic forum if you decide you need additional help.

David

[auld argonian]

Being somewhat familiar with safety measures for artists, I'd suggest that you take precautions to minimize your contact with the dust generated when sawing or sanding the Blackwood. I'm not sure whether Blackwood is one of the types of wood that can trigger toxic reactions when it comes in contact with the human body (specifically the respiratory system!) but it's better to be safe than sorry. While searching for an Irish Flute, I had to pass on those made of Cocus and Rosewood because of the articles that I read about the potential for some nasty skin reactions that some people get from contact with the oils in those woods. Inhaling the dust produced by some of these woods can be absolutely devastating.

Given your background as a machinist, I'd bet that you probably already know to be careful but I figgered that I should mention it.

Best

AA

[Thunderbolt]

As someone very familiar with knives and their applications, let me add this.

If you are pushing so hard that the scales break or the glue gives way then either your knife isn't sharp enough or you have the wrong knife for the job. It's sort of like complaining that you broke your finishing hammer while driving framing nails. Right tool, right job.

Right you are. The sgian would be a poor choice for many applications. However, it many time may be the only knife I have available, so it needs to be up to the task. I can't carry my Benchmade all the time, but it will often be found clipped to my kilt inside the waistband. I usually don't carry a sgian for this reason.

Unlike the kilt, a sgian isn't a perfect tool. I suspect that's why a dirk was carried as well. But I don't carry a dirk. If I did, I'd just strap on my Strider.

Being somewhat familiar with safety measures for artists, I'd suggest that you take precautions to minimize your contact with the dust generated when sawing or sanding the Blackwood. I'm not sure whether Blackwood is one of the types of wood that can trigger toxic reactions when it comes in contact with the human body (specifically the respiratory system!) but it's better to be safe than sorry. While searching for an Irish Flute, I had to pass on those made of Cocus and Rosewood because of the articles that I read about the potential for some nasty skin reactions that some people get from contact with the oils in those woods. Inhaling the dust produced by some of these woods can be absolutely devastating.

Given your background as a machinist, I'd bet that you probably already know to be careful but I figgered that I should mention it.

Best

AA

Yeah. Working on walnut turns my hands a deep purple color that will NOT wash off. I haven't had much problems with AB but I wear a mask anyway.

T.

[Yaish]

I figured you'd know about tools and their uses, but felt it was worth saying anyway.

An author I read is also an accomplished bladesmith, and has this to say about his knife guarantee.

www.sharppointythings.com

My knife guarantee: I guarantee it's a knife. I don't guarantee it's a crowbar, a screwdriver, a chisel, or any other industrial tool. It may do a handy job of those things in an emergency, but it's designed to cut, thrust, chop lightly and slice. Using it otherwise will result in undesirable results--either broken stuff, or broken knife. In that case, you can give me more money.

[Thunderbolt]

I figured you'd know about tools and their uses, but felt it was worth saying anyway.

An author I read is also an accomplished bladesmith, and has this to say about his knife guarantee.

www.sharppointythings.com

That's awesome...and the truth!

T.