I've never made the choice. Have always deferred to the kiltmaker's judgement and been pleased with the result.

For what its worth of the 25 tartan kilts I own (not counting the SportKilts pleated to the "gather") 16 are pleated to the sett, 9 are pleated to the stripe.

Like everyone else, the kiltmaker's choice is based on the tartan itself. If I'd chosen different tartans the count would be different.

Ask your kiltmaker to see it both ways and make the choice if you must.

Ron