DIY Regulation Doublet

[kevinkinney]

Howdy again,

Thanks for the compliments!

for the parachute cord, I used a medium width presser foot on one of our tailoring machines, ordinary poly/poly wrapped thread from the store, and 12 stitches per inch. I ran down one side of the cord, then up the other edge. The thread is barely visible. The seams, panels, and reinforced patches for the button holes are all stitched at 10 stitches per inch. On both the top flaps and the adjacent but slightly larger ones underneath, I stitched the edges just shy of 1/4", turned them, ironed them, then dropped the nylon panels inside. The lower/underneath flap has a basting stitch 1" in from the edge, and the upper flap has the piping sewn through all the layers.

I'd elaborate more, but my spell check has to drink heavily enough to recover from an evening of my typing. I'll do a more thorough photo essay on my next project.

Cheers,

Kevin.

[kevinkinney]

post and images deleted

[Arlen]

Now that looks very, very good.
Fantastic work.
Now we need a picture of you in the jacket?

[Joel]

Wow...that looks great!

[Earl D]

Kevin,
Can you give me some tips on doing the gauntlet cuffs? Maybe point me in the direction of a pattern or something?

Thanks,

Earl

[kevinkinney]

Hi Earl,

Sorry I can't take a picture of this. My camera went to heaven this morning, and I need to read up on the new one before I'm allowed to use it...

Err...umm....I kinda eyeballed it. I've got my dad's 1950's tweed Argylle for a model. I copied the swooped shape of the curve, and made the split atop the outer edge of the gauntlet to match.

My jacket size is 42R with ***" of arm length. The finished cuff is roughly 13" in circumference at the lower edge, and 14" at the upper reach. The inside height of the gauntlet is finished at 3.5" high, and the outer edge is 6" high to the tips. The last 1.5" of the seam at the tips is open, and steamed slightly to accentuate the outward-ness of them. If you were to lay the cuffs flat, and align a ruler from the lowest point of the inside edges to the gauntlet tips, the curve of the fabric that spans those two points would drop 3/4" from the bottom edge of the ruler. That low point of the curve is exactly 1/2 way between the two points. (Does this make sense?)

I actually cut my gauntlets 2" too long, then used the extra length to let the sleeves out to my length. They're stiffened quite a bit, so they retain their shape even when I'm moving my arms about.

Good luck.

Kevin.

[kevinkinney]

Post and images deleted.

[McMurdo]

It looks even better on, thanks for the new pictures, I'm sure you will get years of wear from it.

[ChattanCat]

That is quite a nice sash... er... ah... and the jacket looks nice too.

[Earl D]

Thanks for the additional info, Kevin. Yep, your description of the "swoop" betwixt the low inside edge to the tip of the gantlet makes sence. What has me confused is your description of "The last 1.5" of the seam at the tips is open". Maybe I'm just getting old and having a time visualizing it in my minds eye.

Thanks again for the gauntlet pattern you sent me; now all I need to track down is some 550 cord that will match the charcoal/black in the herringbone tweed-or maybe skip the gautlets altogether and just keep the sleeves the way they are (single button on the outside seam).