Review - XMTS 16oz by Barb Tewksbury

**sjrapid** · 16th February 08, 04:10 PM

OK, I promised various people I'd write a review of this kilt and finally, I've just got my fixed digital camera back from the menders, so I can upload and post some pics.

So - my fourth kilt, and my second tartan handsewn. This is the XMTS Tartan, in 16oz weight made by the one-and-only Barb Tewksbury, who as many of us here know literally wrote the book - 'The Art of Kiltmaking' (AoKM).

Barb was great to deal with. We did most of the discussion by e-mail, and I followed her e-mailed instructions on measuring carefully (They're the same ones as you'll find in AoKM). At one point in the process, having done some swift math on time zones, I called her up - and she was totally cool about answering my questions.

On to the tartan. This is the XMTS tartan, as woven by Fraser and Kirkbright in Canada. This length is from the 16oz Run #3 organised by Steve Ashton at Freedom Kilts. Many members here that will remember that there was a snafu with this weaving, which Steve Ashton resolved by having the run re-woven. I'd like to publicly record my thanks to Steve and Bobbie at Freedom Kilts for their hard work and integrity in resolving this on our collective behalf.

The re-weave was great from a quality point-of-view, but boy did it increase the jones factor. I ordered the Tartan in Feb 07, and received the kilt from Barb on 20 December 07!

I'm based in London in the UK, and once Barb had finished the kilt and e-mailed me to say she'd shipped it, I waited over 2 weeks while HMRC (Her Majesty's Revenue and Customs) collected the parcel at Heathrow, and moved it to their 'central facility' in Coventry, and then moved it back to the Parcelforce depot in London! (I'm sure there's logic in the process somewhere, I just can't see it at the moment!)

Then, after Parcelfarce had sent me a letter demanding the £46 customs fee, and I'd made a 16-mile round-trip to pay it and collect the parcel, I had the pleasure of taking it home to open.

It looked more-or-less like this:

Barb shipped the kilt in two US mailing boxes siamesed together with waterproof tape. This is one strongly wrapped box!
[Edit Note: Barb T tells me she's now obtained some custom packing boxes the right size for kilts, so future Tewksbury owners will receive their kilts in a single un-siamesed box.]

Inside the box, the kilt and flashes (which Barb kindly added in for free!) were wrapped in a sheet of very (and I mean very!) heavy lining paper:

When you take the kilt out of the box, your first impression is that despite being made of cloth, it's amazingly solid. There's no movement at all at the waistline, and when you hold it in your hands, you can understand how all the work Barb describes in her book about the stabiliser and the steeking all comes together. I don't have a huge kilt collection for reference, but this one feels much more 'engineered' than my other traditional handsewn.

The hand of the material is also very dense - much more solid and firm than Lochcarron Strome. Whether this is a consequence Fraser and Kirkbright's use of merino wool, I can't say.

OK, so I've got the kilt out of the box. The front looks like this:

and the back looks like this:

Basting stitches are as you'd expect. Un-picking these is a really nerve-wracking experience! I mean, Barb T sewed these - what am I doing unpicking them? It's like undoing the stitches of God!

My tip for anyone doing this for the first time is don't go too fast, and be sure to snip the cottons into short lengths as you go rather than trying to un-pick great lengths.

I left the kilt to hang in my closet overnight to drop the creases out.

I know it's been said before, but it bears repeating. Barb's craftsmanship is incredible. Can you see any stitches on these pleats?

According to the AoKM method, pleats are stitched from the outside. I can't even find or feel any threads, far less see the stitching.

Barb is famous for being obsessive about the neatness of her pleat alignment. Her reputation is well deserved. Sub-single thread alignment precision all the way across the pleats. Does she line the pleats up under a magnifier or something?

In my discussions with Barb, I had worried about apron curl (a problem with my other trad handsewn). On this kilt, there's no trace of curl when the kilt is worn. I notice that Barb has put far more shaping into the apron than my other kilt has, and she's also done a 'hidden pleat' at the left of the front apron to add weight and stiffness. Both these measures work well to suppress curl.

OK, final few shots now. First, the famous Barb T label. If you don't yet own a Tewksbury, you have my permission to be jealous:

Above - me trying to look fierce and failing!

And finally the obligatory pleat shot:

And just to cap it all, my SO looked at me the first time I put it on, and said: "That's better than your other one. Order another from her!" Whoo hoo! One look at this and my SO is telling me to order more kilts! Bravo Barb!

In summary:
Barb Tewksbury - traditional hand sewing at its finest. Accept no substitutes. And with the dollar as weak as it is, at a surprisingly modest price for a UK'er, even with customs duties added on.

Would I order from this maker again? Yes, without hesitation. If my other traditional kilt is a Volkswagen, then this is an AMG Mercedes Black Series. Nuff said!

best regards

**SteveB** · 16th February 08, 04:23 PM

Congratulations!
Definitely a family heirloom.

**Mael Coluim** · 16th February 08, 06:17 PM

Very nice indeed. You look great!

**turpin** · 16th February 08, 08:56 PM

Steve, your review is SPOT ON! You would have to search long and hard to find a better kiltmaker than Barb. I have three of her kilts and it's always a special experience to put them on.

**Panache** · 16th February 08, 09:17 PM

You look great Steve! Welcome to the XMTS tartan club!

Kudos to Barb (yet again)

Cheers

Jamie

**Standard** · 16th February 08, 09:20 PM

Thanks for the great review Steve. I've always heard great things about Barb's kilts, but it sure is nice to see such detailed pictures of one of them. Now I know my next kilt will have to be a Tewksbury.