Walking Stick

**Jock Scot** · 7th March 08, 04:07 PM

Well ok, with hazel you may get away with a year.Whatever you do don't use heat as it will split the wood.It will also pay you,if you can,to cut your stick a couple of inches longer than you need at each end to allow for a split.I and my sons are always looking for sticks as we go about the farm etc., and if you find that "special" stick cut it then and there and never mind what time of year it is.If you don't you will never find it again!Blackthorn looks good with varnish and hazel,ash and holly boiled linseed oil is good.

**James MacMillan** · 7th March 08, 05:46 PM

Why not try what Jamie did, and dry a ficus?

**The Supreme Canuck** · 7th March 08, 08:51 PM

I could, but I'd like something with a little more heft.

**Kilted Carver** · 7th March 08, 09:56 PM

I have done quite a few long sticks and also canes and sheleighlies. Down here there is alot of hickory, ash, maple...etc. I mainly use hardwoods but lately I have been doing sticks and canes from red cedar.
Winter is the best time for harvest, and I usually seal the ends of the sticks with wax and store horizontally.
Alot of the time I will carve within a couple of days, usually with minimal to no checking (splitting). I also noticed if you plan on carving in the stick, it is much easier while they are fresh verses when the are seasoned and hard as a rock.
As far as bark, no bark: If the stick has a thick grayish colored bark you usually can sand off the first 1/8th or 1/16th of an inch and it will reveal a funky swirly brown under-bark that looks really good when finished.
If it has a real thin bark you could go either way, but I usually take it off and use stains.
If you ever need advice, ideas, see some pics or want to talk about sticks and or carving, feel free to holler. fromthelimb@yahoo.com and if you are bored and want see a fledgling website check out www.fromthelimb.com
I will also help you out with custom orders.
I hope this helped,
Just remember, its only wood, if you mess up you just have a nice piece of kindling.

**The Supreme Canuck** · 7th March 08, 10:20 PM

Thanks for the advice. It'll be a couple of months before I can get on this thing, but I think I may take you up on your offer, thanks. I'm just trying to get all the information I can so that I can get started as soon as I'm able.

**Tartan Hiker** · 8th March 08, 05:33 PM

While you're waiting for the perfect sapling to present itself, look around for someone in the area that works with hardwood lumber (cabinetmaker, flooring company, etc.) See if you can find a piece of kiln-dried oak that is at least 3/4" thick (1" or 5/4" would be better). Now go to your table saw and rip it along each side to a perfect square cross-section. Set up for 45 degree rip cuts, then shave off the edges to produce an octagon. Use a rasp to smooth off and taper the last 12" down to the tip, ending with a round cross-section. At the craft center buy a hardwood ball about 1.5" in diameter and mount it to the top with a short threaded rod. Finish with linseed, Watco oil, or polyurathane, then add a rubber chair foot cover to the tip.

The major advantage of this style over sapling sticks is that it is hefty and tough as nails. I've used, and broken, dozens of sapling hiking sticks, and I no longer trust them for heavy duty use. I've never heard a groan from an oak board stick. With a good finish and maybe a light staining they are weatherproof and lovely.

**Panache** · 8th March 08, 05:40 PM

TH,

Instead of a ball one could then use a wider section of another hardwood to shape out a crook for the top with a scroll saw. With a bit of antler horn for a bolster one would then have a rather nice cromach!

Cheers

Jamie

Originally Posted by Tartan Hiker

While you're waiting for the perfect sapling to present itself, look around for someone in the area that works with hardwood lumber (cabinetmaker, flooring company, etc.) See if you can find a piece of kiln-dried oak that is at least 3/4" thick (1" or 5/4" would be better). Now go to your table saw and rip it along each side to a perfect square cross-section. Set up for 45 degree rip cuts, then shave off the edges to produce an octagon. Use a rasp to smooth off and taper the last 12" down to the tip, ending with a round cross-section. At the craft center buy a hardwood ball about 1.5" in diameter and mount it to the top with a short threaded rod. Finish with linseed, Watco oil, or polyurathane, then add a rubber chair foot cover to the tip.

The major advantage of this style over sapling sticks is that it is hefty and tough as nails. I've used, and broken, dozens of sapling hiking sticks, and I no longer trust them for heavy duty use. I've never heard a groan from an oak board stick. With a good finish and maybe a light staining they are weatherproof and lovely.

**Marshal Moroni** · 8th March 08, 06:19 PM

And if you should run out of time or energy to make your own, I have found the good folks at http://www.brazos-walking-sticks.com/ to have a nice selection of canes and sticks. I've bought about half a dozen from them for myself and family with good results.

Cheers,

Marshal Moroni

**The Supreme Canuck** · 8th March 08, 07:20 PM

I could go with an oak board and cut it down, but that's actually a lot more work than finding a stick of the right size from the get-go. Aside from that, I'm looking for something a little "twisty" if you get my meaning.

**Ancienne Alliance** · 9th March 08, 03:14 AM

For years I've been looking for a nice walking stick. Until one day, a friend came for a visit at home and revealed what I now consider as being the ideal walking stick.

It's elegant...

It's knobbly , knotted AND light...

...and it's made of my dried up Christmas trees !

here is my next one drying in the back yard. They make an excellent gift for kilted friends !

Have a good Sunday !

Robert